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Q. May 4, 2012. Can you tell me if it is customary for a remediation contractor to charge a fee for the initial inspection and cost estimate?
       
A. Many experienced and well-trained mold remediation contractors do charge a remediation proposal fee because they have to invest significant time and money in inspecting and testing the building to learn the extent of the mold problem and to prepare a mold remediation protocol plan for that particular building to be mold remediated.  A contractor that seriously investigates the extent of a mold problem before making a remediation price quotation is helping both himself and the property owner because one of the many reasons that most mold remediation projects fail to solve the remediated building's mold problems is that the mold remediator does not know where all of the hidden mold is inside walls, ceilings, floors, attic, crawl space, basement, and heating/cooling equipment and ducts. For example, mold experts Phillip Fry and Divine Montero, who are Certified Mold Inspectors and Remediators, will not provide a mold remediation proposal and price quotation unless they have first thoroughly mold inspected and mold tested the building needing mold removal. Here's a good analogy to understand this important issue. A medical doctor surgeon is not going to do major, invasive surgery on a patient until AFTER extensive medical testing of the patient with such techniques as MRI scans, CAT scans, body tissue biopsies, blood testing, urine testing, and more.
    Q. April 17, 2012. I live in Michigan. I have a wife and four young children. We co-own a condominium for about 12 years now. My nightmare started in August 2010 when a water feed line gave way and flooded my entire unit. My family and I were placed in a hotel for 8 months while the management company hired their own contractor to repair the unit. The workmanship was so poorly done but we were still happy to be home a couple days before Easter Sunday of 2011. A couple weeks after being home I started getting ill quite often. My 9 year old daughter complains of her throat feeling constricted and my 4 year old son is having flu like symptoms, my 17 year old daughter complains of migraines. I even been rushed to the Emergency room more than 7 times within the past 9 months and they have no answers. In January of this year I consulted with an allergy and immune specialist and after being poked with over 60 needles all the tests showed no allergic reaction. So after a review of my past medical history, the allergy and immune specialist wrote a letter strongly suggesting that it's a toxic reaction that I’m being exposed to. I forwarded the letter to the management company and their attorneys and the attorney called and questioned if the doctor was at my condominium for him to come to this conclusion. I had mushrooms growing on my front condominium walls outside my unit about 20 feet from ground level. So I called a mold specialist who did a wall cavity air sample and found 14 thousand counts of fungi in the wall cavity. I also have dust particles airborne in my condominium all day and night which makes no sense to me. I believe that the condominium insurance carrier should be held accountable for getting my condominium back to living conditions. What help or testing can you provide that would help me and my family get back to normal living. All charges I will forward over to the condominium insurance carrier. 
      
A. Unfortunately the bad remediation job done by the contractor is typical of most mold remediation jobs. Most remediation efforts are failures because the contractor does not find all of the mold hidden INSIDE walls, ceilings, floors, heating/cooling equipment and ducts, attic, crawl space, etc., and because the mold contractor takes short cuts in doing the job or does improper and incomplete mold remediation procedures. Your family's medical history of typical mold health symptoms and the mushroom growth and the mold testing revealing high mold content inside the wall cavity are proof that, unfortunately, the mold remediation done for you is typical of bad results.  In view of your family's serious health problems and the continuing strong evidence of existing hidden mold growth, I recommend that you find someplace else to live temporarily, even in a tent in your back yard in view of the warm weather season you are now experiencing in Michigan. Temporarily, because your home needs to have in depth mold inspection (with fiber optics) and testing inside ALL wall and ceiling cavities to determine the extent of the remaining mold infestation. My mold inspector partner Divine and I can do a thorough inspection and testing of those areas.  As a big step forward for your home, you can inject high volumes of ozone gas through entry holes into the wall, ceiling, and floor cavities plus heating/cooling system with the hose connection of our high volume, affordable ozone blaster, which you can read about and buy at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. You should also sign up now for my 60 days of unlimited email mold advice for only $99 at http://www.moldmart.net. I can help you solve this terrible mold health nightmare. Best wishes, Phillip Fry, mold expert, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

       Q. Jan. 28, 2012. Thank you for your email help and advice, and for your mold books, boric acid powder, and ozone generator. I only wish I found your site before I used the remediation comedies because obviously the job was only half done.  I am very hopeful that we can get rid of this continuous problem and be a little healthier.  I worry about long term damage, especially to my baby. We have been battling mold in our home we bought for nearly two years now.  We have spent nearly $5,000 in mold remediation companies only to find out that we have begun smelling that lovely musty smell again. Our problem area is mostly in the crawlspace.  Upon moving in we replaced some visible mold spots we found on walls and the flooring and put down hardwoods throughout.  Later the smell became so powerful we found that the mold had thoroughly taken over the crawlspace. There is also a strong mold smell when we open our kitchen cabinets. We currently have it on the market because I can't stand the health problems I know in my heart are related to the mold.  My 2 yr. old son and I are mostly the ones affected with mainly sinus issues although I also have two older daughters as well.  We have had to buy a nebulizer for his asthma that we use on an as needed basis.  My questions are: 1. Which bag of the Boric Acid Powder do I need for a house that is nearly 2700 sq. ft.? 2.  I know I need a fogger for the air units but do you know of one that works well for about $100 or can you also spray these with a garden sprayer 3.  Should I start the Boric solution spraying before I get my BioBlaster or wait to do it all at once? 4.  Since the interior walls and air units were not treated by the remediation company, do I need to spray and scrub all walls and everything in the house as well?---D.W., Georgia.
      
A. Thanks for buying two of my mold advice ebooks and the Bio3Blaster ozone generator and boric acid powder to help you get rid of your home mold problems. You need to succeed both for your family's health and to be able to sell the house without any legal problems from the future buyer of your home. Have your lawyer draft for your use in any future home sales contract a disclosure about the mold problems and what you have done in mold remediation, along with an “as is” clause, that the buyer is buying the home “as is” without any representations to you about its physical condition. I'm sorry you are having such serious mold problems and that you have had the typical experience people have with expensive mold remediators---failure of the mold remediation job after you have paid big money for supposedly professional help. Unfortunately, most mold remediation jobs are failures because of inadequate mold worker training and supervision of them, missed areas not remediated, ineffective and incomplete mold removal procedures, and shortcuts taken. Before buying a home, it wise for the prospective buyer to have the home thoroughly inspected by a Certified Mold Inspector to avoid the mold nightmare your family is living in. You are wise to take care of the problem yourself to get the results your family deserves. Your first step should be to use the ozone generator for at least two hours in the crawl space, at least one hour into the fresh air intake of your heating/cooling system, and one hour in all areas of the house, including its attic. Please don’t "go room to room" with your ozone generator by carrying the ozone generator around with you when you are operating it. You have to place the ozone generator in each separate area you want to do mold killing and then turn the generator on and off by plugging and unplugging an electrical extension cord remotely from the outdoors.   Be sure you read and follow the safety instructions for safe and effective ozone treatment, as explained in the instruction page at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. Watch the video on the website as to how to attach the hose to the ozone generator because you will want to use the hose as the way to inject the ozone into the fresh air intake while your heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system is running on fan ventilation. As a second step, do heavy spraying of boric acid powder, mixed into hot water to dissolve it well. In view of budgetary constraints (which almost everyone has including the government!!!), in lieu of a fogging machine in the doing boric treatment of your crawl space and HVAC, you can use a hand-pumped sprayer (about $40) from a large hardware store or home improvement store.  Mix at least 24 ounces of boric per gallon of hot water. You can use the sprayer to inject boric spray into the heating/cooling system while it is running on fan ventilation. Is the crawl space high enough that you can get into it to do a heavy spraying and mold removal of the mold growth???  While you are doing mold remediation, you need to follow the safety precautions such as always wearing N-95 breathing mask, eye goggles, disposable vinyl gloves, painter's hat and disposable shoe covers and coveralls.  Your family, pets, and plants must not be in the house during the ozone treatment and boric acid treatment steps---have your children be with neighbors, friends, or relatives until at least a few hours after ozone treatment and boric treatment steps.  As a third step, you need to physically remove any visible mold growth to visibly mold clean condition using such tools as a Makita grinder with wire brush attachment and hand-held wire brush. Because of the large size of the house, may I suggest that you buy one 50 pound bag of boric acid powder, available at http://www.moldmart.net. After you have used the ozone generator inside your HVAC and in all rooms and areas (including crawl space and attic), you should wash and scrub all walls, ceilings, floors, and furnishings with boric acid dissolved into hot water. You can safely assume that all of your interior home surfaces will have elevated levels of deposited/landed mold spores that you need to remove. In addition, the indoor air is going to have elevated levels of airborne mold spores. Before, during, and after mold remediation, open up the windows of your house and use large box fans to continually exhaust indoor air to the outdoors to get rid of elevated levels of airborne mold spores. As to the kitchen cabinets, when you smell mold, THERE IS mold.  You might have a kitchen sink or dishwasher plumbing leak that enables mold to grow beneath or behind the cabinets.  Empty all of the cabinets for a close physical examination with a strong flash light and your sense of smell for any mold growth inside the cabinets themselves. When there is extensive mold growth in a crawl space, it is very easy for the mold to grow upwards into the floors, walls, carpeting/padding, and kitchen/bathroom cabinets and furniture setting on the floor. You would be very wise to temporarily remove the kitchen counter and the cabinets so that you can examine the back and bottom side of all kitchen cabinets and the floor beneath them. If there is mold growth in any of these areas, use of a Makita grinder with wire brush attachment on the moldy surfaces followed by hand scrubbing with hand-held wire brush and scrubbing brush continually soaking with fresh boric acid powder in hot water (to dissolve the boric, so it is for the boric mix to be just warm water when you use it).   Please email me with any and all mold remediation questions you may have. We are here to help you. In service, Phillip and Divine Fry, mold consultants, Certified Environmental Hygienists, Certified Mold Inspectors, and Certified Mold Remediators.

     Q. We had a catastrophic mold homeowners claim last year resulting in our home testing positive for toxic mold and 3/4 of our home being gutted and re-built.  With that said, the contractor did not obtain a building permit and the mold remediation company hired an HVAC cleaning company that did not insulate the ductwork properly resulting in a huge condensation problem that has now ruined all of our ceilings again and everywhere that the ductwork runs has tested positive for the toxic mold again.  During our last claim, our insurance company made us leave our home in the middle of the night and not return until almost 4 months later when the work was finished.  This time they had us remain in our home the past 3 weeks until the test results returned and now say maybe we should have left a few weeks ago, but definitely have to leave again so our home can be remediated again.  We have a 6 year old child that has been sick from allergy symptoms and a fever for the past few weeks and he has to be tested by an allergist next week to see if he is having a reaction to the mold.  He is fine during the day at school, but gets sick within hours of returning home each day.  My question is how can we determine if we have any adverse health consequences from this second exposure?  And do we have any legal rights concerning the property damage that has occurred a second time due to the negligence of the contractor for not obtaining a building permit that an inspector would have caught the improper insulation and also against the HVAC company for not insulating properly and causing this second exposure for our home to mold?  Also, our insurance adjuster forgot to include replacing the insulation that was removed throughout our home and the contractor is claiming that the adjuster is at fault also and that's why he did not replace the insulation that contributed to the humidity and condensation problem.  We are absolutely at our wits end over this situation, but are not sure if we should seek legal counsel.  Thank you for all your insight into the medical implications we could be facing.  [Sept. 15, 2005]
       A. Your very sad letter has several lessons that all property owners should realize: 1. Pay for or do your own independent mold investigation, testing, and remediation both prior to and after mold remediation to learn the extent of the mold infestation and to make sure the water and mold problems are definitely taken care of in the remediation process. 2. Hire only a mold remediator specialist contractor that has the experience and training to do the mold remediation property. 3. Do not represent yourself in making a mold insurance claim----utilize either an independent insurance adjuster who works on a commission basis of what is collected from your insurance company and makes sure the payment and scope of work are sufficient to get the job done, or an attorney who specializes in collecting on insurance claims. 4. Living in mold infestation, even for a few weeks, can cause severe health problems, including the possibility of permanent health problems.. Your family members should have every possible mold medical diagnostic step done for each of them. Learn all about mold health and available medical mold diagnostic and treatment procedures in the in depth ebook Mold Health Guide  As to your possible claims against the mold remediator and the insurance company, you should learn what rights you may have by consulting with an environmental or insurance-oriented attorney. Learn about mold legal claims in the in depth ebook Mold Legal Guide.

      
Q. My parents are renovating an area of the house, and today when they took down the interior ceiling (they have a leaking roof), they discovered the framing work was black with mildew, but the mold around that was white.  They are wearing masks as a precaution, but we've never heard of that type of mold before, let alone not knowing if it's as hazardous or worse than black mold.  Any suggestions on how to handle this? [April 22, 2005]
        A. Any mold in elevated levels indoors can cause severe health problems for occupants. Molds come in many colors beyond black. White mold is actually very common, and very unhealthy like all other molds in elevated levels indoors. Your parents were smart to wear protective masks while working on their mold removal project. The best protective masks are 3M brand full face breathing respirators with organic vapor filters, available form large hardware or home improvement stores, or from a safety supply store. To guide your parents in their mold remediation efforts, suggest that they read the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation. It is likely that the mold growth is actually bigger than your parents may think it is because it is likely that the mold may have grown internally into adjoining walls, ceilings, and floors. In addition, airborne mold spores from the mold [especially after the ceiling was opened up if there were no proper mold containment procedures] may have traveled in air currents to mold cross contaminate the entire house and its heating/cooling system. For this reason, your parents should mold test their entire home by using do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store---or with a Certified Mold Inspector.

        Q. If mold can be seen on sheetrock in a bathroom - does the sheet rock need to be replaced or can it be cleaned? [March 9, 2005]
        A. Your first step should be to repeatedly clean and scrub the moldy wall with Borax laundry detergent, a natural mold cleaner, in warm water to remove as much of the visible mold growth as possible. You can use low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart. Then watch the wall for one to two months. If the mold problem does not return, the mold problem was only on the surface and your mold remediation is complete. If the mold does return, replace the sheet rock, and do the 25 steps recommended for safe and effective mold remediation. You need to find the water source that enables the mold to grow, such as high humidity or a plumbing leak inside the wall. Another potential problem is that is likely that airborne mold spores from the bathroom mold will have traveled in air currents to mold cross contaminate your entire house and its heating/cooling system. You ought to mold inspect and mold test all around your home. Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store, or hire a Certified Mold Inspector.

      Q.
We are looking at a house that has been closed up for six months, and the house has mold everywhere. We are looking into ice blasting have you ever worked with this? Is there a better way to remove the mold? How can you test for mold inside the walls? [Feb.26, 2005]
      A. Ice blasting is an effective way to remove mold growth from wood, but be sure that all mold is removed completely, leaving clean, mold-free timbers. You can use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes and other Mold Killing and protective products available at Mold Mart. If there is mold growth inside walls and ceilings, you will need to remove and discard the drywall to gain access to the wall and ceiling cavities to do ice blasting or any other form of mold remediation. To learn where there might be internal wall and ceiling mold growth, use fiber optics inspection by either a Certified Mold Inspector or buy your own fiber optics inspection device [about $300 on the internet]. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation.

     Q.
I am a Canadian living and working in Moscow, Russia. Recently I bought an apartment here and now we are starting to do renovations but we have not moved in yet. We discovered some mold on the walls under the wallpaper on the exterior walls, mainly around the windows. The apartment is on the 21st floor and the previous owners kept it quite humid.  Our contractor claims the source of the mold is probably the exterior of the building, and the mold penetrated through the concrete.  Buildings here are notoriously poorly built, so the exterior concrete is likely truly porous and/or has cracks. The main question for us now is what to do to prepare the apartment to be lived in. The contractor says the best thing to do is to clean off the mold, then put drywall over the moldy walls leaving a 5mm space between the exterior wall and the drywall to isolate the mold. I worry that if we do that, the mold will simply grow between the wall and drywall the later work its way though the drywall and eventually reappear.  He says this would not happen. Nevertheless, I would prefer to find a way to clean the mold and keep it from re-appearing.  He says this is not possible because the whole outside of the building is likely moldy and there would be no way to keep the mold from coming back. What do you think about this?  What would you recommend to do?  (Keep in mind that the range of products you find in the US are not available here.) [Feb. 20, 2005]
      A. The contractor is likely to be correct in his analysis, but not in his proposed cure. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation so that you can kill and remove all indoor mold as the first step in solving the mold problem. You can make Russian mold killers by following the recipes in our special report Mold Home Remedy Recipes, available from Mold Mart. One item you will need to find in Russia or import is a good quality waterproofing compound to be mixed into concrete. Why? Because you will want the contractor to apply about a one inch thick [or thicker] cement coating [containing plenty of waterproofing compound] to the inside of your masonry exterior walls to stop future water intrusion. Your doing this interior cement liner wall can compensate for the porous and cracking nature of the exterior wall surface. If the ceiling above your apartment is the concrete floor of the apartment above, you should also apply a similar cement coating to your side of the concrete floor above. You would be wise to mold test your entire apartment and its heating/cooling system air flow but before and after mold remediation to make sure your apartment is mold-safe for occupancy.
Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store  Read the how to book Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing, and Remediation. You would also be wise to operate a programmable dehumidifier to keep indoor humidity to a mold-discouraging 30 to 40%.  If you have any mold follow up questions, please email at your convenience.

    
Q. I hired a contractor to build a master bedroom addition over our existing garage.  The structure was completed in November and the insulation was completed in early January.  All the work was per code and approved by the local building inspector prior to continuing. Last Friday during a cleanup session the contractor noticed that there were some water stains on the cathedral ceiling area of the bedroom.  He contacted the roofer to check the roof for any leaks or damaged shingles.  According to the roofer there was no apparent damage to the shingles (nor is any visible from the ground.)  The shower portion has not been finished yet  so we decided to pull off all the insulation and see if we can  tell where the damage was coming from.  When we did that, we noticed that there was mold on the roof plywood.  Not all the area was visible so we took off the recessed ceiling light cans in the bedroom to see if we could ascertain any more information.  It was determined that the rear side of the bedroom (including the bathroom) has mold damage,  apparently from water entering the ceiling area although we are not sure how the moisture entered that space yet.  The front side of the bedroom appears to  be free and clear of all damage.  My questions are---have you ever heard of anything like this happening before?  How would you recommend that damage such as this be remedied (the contractor is suggesting removing the shingles, plywood and insulation from above and re-installing with new material,  the work would be done from the outside to avoid disruption on the  inside)?  Can the damage be fixed without demolishing the roof?  [Feb. 10, 2005]
      A. The contractor’s recommendation of fixing the problem from the outside is your only workable solution, but the entire exposed roof work area needs to be completely protected with waterproof tarps against possible rain until the new roof is installed. If the plywood was, in fact, accessible from inside [not your situation], you might still have to remove the moldy plywood roof sheathing [and therefore the roof] if the moldy roof sheathing could not be cleaned of mold by labor-intensive use of a power planer, grinder with wire brush attachment, and power sander. Read the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation.

       Q. I am writing from Massachusetts, USA.  We had flooding in our home and now have a mold problem.  I have no idea where to begin to have testing done to determine what kind of mold is growing, and if there is a possibility for toxic mold to be growing in our home. Also, the mold growth is extensive, and my husband thinks he can remediate on his own, without any help.  I think we need a professional to do the remediation, but have no idea how to find such a company. Please help!  We have a 9 month old baby living in this house and I am worried about her health.  Should I move out of the house with the baby while the mold cleanup is being done? [January 3, 2005]
        A. To protect the baby and your entire family, it would be wise to move to a temporary mold-safe place until the home has been completely mold remediated, and your home passes "clearance testing" afterwards to document that there is no remaining mold health threat. Learn how to do safe and effective mold remediation. So-called professional mold remediation is often bad in results because of poor worker training and because of numerous shortcuts taken by many mold contractors. You would also be wise to mold test the visible molds [for mold lab analysis], the air of each room, the air of the basement/crawl space/attic/garage, and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register to determine the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test. Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. Become your own effective mold expert to improve your personal home or apartment environmental safety and/or the environmental health of your investment properties by reading all three of our mold advice, email delivered books [Mold Health Guide, $15; Mold Legal Guide, $15; and Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, & Remediation, $15] for $49.

       
Q.  I live with my partner & 4 year old daughter. Last month we discovered lines/circles of green, blue/green & black mould in our bedroom, either side of the bay window (the 'lines' seem to come from the side not from above or below). I am so worried about the effects our mould problem is having on our health & my sanity! Every room seems to have strange grease marks or lines, lumps & bumps appearing on walls & ceilings and our furniture has mould growth -including our beds & bedroom furniture. Our daughter is having to sleep on a bed (bought new in July 2003) which has green growth on the metal brackets holding the head & foot boards to the base, any metal is tarnished and the grain in the wood seems more apparent to me. Strange marks have appeared on the top & bottom wooden posts on our bed and the metal frame is 'bent' now so that part of the bed doesn't actually sit on the floor, every single piece of our furniture in every room seems to have a chalky coating & chalky marks/grease marks are visible on every wall in every room. There are new lumps & bumps coming up on the walls, skirting boards & ceilings, the stairs have split in places, the grain is raised and horrible dark or wet looking marks are coming up on every step; even the laminate flooring upstairs seems to have a  chalky or grey/green cast, the grain looks 'spidery', a definite change in the pattern & it has moved or dropped a lot. Many things don't work as they used to and the smell is ever present and actually makes me retch! I have a constant cold trickle at the back of my throat which gives me an extremely bitter taste all day, every day. I have medical problems and my partner and I are ready to kill one another; god knows what’s happening to our daughter without our knowing - I asked our insurance/ building surveyor if mould was toxic or damaging in anyway as I was and still am unhappy about staying here  (Oh, I forgot to mention the water drip lines running on the wall in the gas meter, electric meter, fuse box, and cupboard under the stairs) without testing  anything he told me it was SAFE to be here and that the problem - he told us that the cause was condensation - every room & cupboard and their contents is damaged, permanently?? Hence no insurance payment as 'condensation' is not covered in our top of the range policy - surely it has to be a deeper rooted problem than that - water suppliers main sewer overflowed during  flash floods in August this year and our house & garage sat in a moat of 9 inches of water & god knows what else. I am convinced this is the trigger,  but maybe I'm wrong. I just know I feel 'vague, tired, irritable, sickly & at the end of my tether. We put everything we had into the house, over 20k to get the house the way we wanted it, we worked liked trojans to restore, sand, prepare, paint & clean (1935 semi-detached house, it needed updating a little - to say the least, the house was empty for nearly 12 months before we bought it in November 2003, moving in 'at last' in July of this year) the house - we spent a lot of time & money restoring the original Parquet flooring downstairs - black marks are all over the floors downstairs, the kitchen floor tiles are uneven and the grout has either come out or turned white/chalky or brown/green We have had so many things go wrong here, a lot of which were problems caused by bad workmanship via the 'builder' we employed to do the renovating.  [December 10, 2004]
       
 A. Your family's adverse health situation and the huge mold infestation problem mean that your family needs to move out immediately to a mold-safe place to live. Don't harm your health further by staying another day in mold hell! Do not move your clothing and personal possessions anywhere without first washing them outside of [or away from] the mold hell with Borax laundry detergent [a natural mold cleaner] mixed into warm water. It is very likely that you are going to have to open up all walls, ceilings, floors, heating/cooling system, etc., to do full mold remediation of the house to save your home investment. Learn the steps required for safe and effective mold remediation. You would be wise to read our two books Mold, Fungus, and Health Guide and Do-It-Yourself-Mold-Book, both available at at our online mold products catalog  You need to have your entire family's health checked out immediately by a neurologist [for brain damage], ear/nose/throat specialist [ENT], and a pulmonary physician [lung doctor]. As for the insurance coverage, most policies exclude any form of mold insurance coverage. If there is mold coverage, you usually have to prove a sudden and accidental insured peril cause for the mold growth, not something like poor building maintenance [the number one cause of mold problems]. You might want to have your insurance policy and factual situation reviewed by an independent insurance adjuster who represents only you against the insurance company on a commission basis.


   
        Q.  My husband and I went down to my parents’ home in Florida several weeks after hurricane Jeanne.  The home had some water damage inside and smelled very moldy and due to a lack of anywhere else to stay, we spent four nights in the mobile home.  FEMA suggested that we put the air conditioner on 75 degrees to kill the mold.  After a few days, the smell was less, however, I am wondering if we put ourselves in danger by staying in the house so long.  What health risks are involved?  We both feel fine right now but I wonder if mold can be growing in our lungs, etc.  I would appreciate any information you can give us. [November 15, 2004]
          
A. Running the air conditioning did NOT kill the mold, but only served to widely distribute airborne mold spores to mold cross-contaminate the entire house. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation.  Learn about handling hurricane mold problems. It is very likely that you breathed in elevated levels of airborne mold spores during your 4 day visit to the moldy mobile home. Of course, your parents are at even greater risk because of the cumulative effective of living in mold contamination. You need to watch your health for any mold health symptoms. You should also read our Mold Health Guide (2012 edition), available at the online mold products catalog.

         Q.
I am looking at buying a home that HAD mold remediation done to it. Should I have any concerns of the mold returning? [9/15/04]
        
A. Yes, you need to be very concerned. Most mold remediation jobs are done by companies and employees who are poorly trained in safe and effective mold remediation. In addition, most mold contractors take many job shortcuts that result in mold still remaining, and often, leaving more mold problems AFTER mold remediation than beforehand due to mold cross-contamination by poorly-done mold remediation in violation of required cross-contamination and safety precautions. Property owners seeking to hire experienced and knowledgeable mold remediators need to locate a Certified Mold Remediator.  What you need to do is your own "clearance testing" by paying a Certified Mold Inspector  to carefully physically inspect the home or building for mold infestation and to mold test the air of each room, basement, crawl space, and the air outflow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test. You can use a Certified Mold Inspector or our do-it-yourself mold test kits for the air testing described above. Learn the 25 steps required for safe and effective mold remediation.  One very helpful mold inspection step that a Certified Mold Inspector can do for you is to use fiber optics inspection techniques and mold testing INSIDE walls, ceilings, and wood floors.

         Q. I have suffered major water damage in my home. A service company came in and pulled what the insurance adjuster would let them and dried the house. He does NOT want to pull the sheet rock from the outside wall even though it was wet 2 feet up for over 10 days. I am sure the insulation was wet for that long as well. He is telling me that as long as they get dry readings there is no need to concern myself with future mold problems. My son is asthmatic and when I walk in to the house....the smell of mildew/mold is extremely evident. I am afraid of what will happen if I am unable to convince my adjuster to remove the sheetrock and insulation! HELP!!! Do you have any information on the statistics of how long something must be wet before mold appears? [Sept. 1, 2004]
        A. The drywall, paper backing on insulation or cellulose insulation and the wall and floor timbers can start having serious mold growth after just 24 hours of wetness. You will need to remove and discard at least the bottom 4 ft. of all affected drywall so that you can do thorough and complete mold inspection and testing, plus mold repairs. Learn what is required for safe and effective mold remediation. If you represent yourself against the insurance company, you will fare poorly in getting money. Hire an independent insurance adjuster who works on a reasonable commission basis solely on your behalf to collect the claim Check your Yellow Pages locally and neighboring large cities to find one. You also need very much to read our in depth Mold Legal Guide, available at Mold Store You also need to know the true extent of the mold contamination through out your house. Your first and most affordable mold investigative step to learn the severity and the extent of the possible mold infestation by using do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store [with self observation of results over a 5 to 7 day time period, or send the collected mold samples in the mold test kits for mold lab analysis] to mold test the air of each room, attic, basement, crawl space, and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test which you should also do. If you see any visible mold growth, from each moldy area, scrape some of the mold particles into a separate mold test kit per testing location for observation over a 5 to 7 day time period, and/or for mold lab analysis. When scraping mold into a mold test kit, you would be wise to use a breathing air respirator [Home Depot or Lowe’s or a safety store] so that you don’t breathe in extra mold spores that you put into the air by scraping some mold-like substances into each mold test kit.   Mold test kits come with detailed use instructions to make your tests informative and helpful in mold problem diagnosis.  Learn how to do your own, self-observation analysis of mold test kits results at Mold Test Kit Interpretation. You can also read online the copyrighted form “Self-Analysis & Interpretation of Visible Mold Growth in Do-It-Yourself Mold Test kits.”  Learn how to do Scotch tape lift tape sampling as an inexpensive way to collect mold samples for mold lab analysis.

       Q.
We just recently noticed mold and mildew growing on the drywall in our coat closet.  We think we have figured out when and where the moisture came from but are unsure of what to do about the mold in on the drywall.   I say we should have the drywall taken out and disposed of.  My husband thinks we should clean it and put a paint sealer on it.   Neither one of us is really sure what we should do.   Any help would be appreciated. [Feb. 22, 2004]

       A. Use proper safety procedures to protect your health, you need to remove the drywall and discard it, and fix any interior wall problems, and use low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart. Learn detailed mold remediation instructions.
 
       Q. I HAVE NOTICED MOLD GROWING ON THE CEILING IN MY  UPSTAIRS BATHROOM , IN ONE GENERAL AREA.  THIS AREA IS NOT BIG, BUT I DON'T WANT THE PROBLEM TO GROW.  IT SEEMS TO BE BLACK IN COLOR AND SORT OF "SPOTTY",  JUST SOME BLACK SPOTS ON THE CEILING.  WHAT IS THE BEST HOME REMEDY FOR GETTING RID OF THIS?  PEOPLE HAVE SAID JUST PLAIN BLEACH....WILL THIS SOLVE MY PROBLEM? [Oct. 6, 2003]

       A. You need to stop the water problem that enables the mold to grow. Your humidity in the bathroom may be too high during showers, etc. Make sure you have an exhaust fan running that vents directly outside to control humidity building up during showers and baths. Buy a digital hygrometer for about $30 from the thermometer section of a large hardware store or home store. Your humidity through out your house needs to be 30 to 40% year round to inhibit mold growth. If the humidity level is 50 to 60% or higher, you are going to be able to grow great crops of mold, both visible as well as hidden inside walls, ceilings, floors, and heating/cooling ducts and equipment. Use an effective mold fungicide on the present bathroom mold after you have cleaned off as much as you can with Borax laundry detergent mixed into distilled water. Visit: Mold Store   You need to know how seriously and where your home, business, or place of employment might be mold contaminated. Samples of any visible mold should be collected using the Scotch tape lift sampling method explained on Mold Mart. Your next step to solve the problem is to mold test the air of each room, basement, crawl space, attic, and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test. Elevated mold levels signify a possible serious mold infestation problem and health threat. Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. Or hire a Certified Mold Inspector. To know how to do mold remediation safely and effectively, please visit: Mold Removal.  You should also read our 3 ebooks: (1) Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing, & Remediation; (2) Mold Health Guide; and (3) Mold Legal Guide. Bleach is not an effective mold killer. Learn about bleach and mold.


      
Q.
My wife and I offered a bid on a cozy 1300 safe house and the seller accepted.  Since this would be our first home a FHA inspection was required.  The seller (a bank) had the lights turned on and the water so the inspector could come.  I decided to go check on the house since it had been turned on and discovered they had cut the water line to the house itself on as well and flooded the house where a dishwasher line was left on with no dishwasher attached. I immediately reported the problem and demanded it be cleanup.  Water sat in the floor for the next 9 days before they cleaned it up.  Now there is black and grey spots throughout the carpet and you can smell the mold in the air. Can the carpet and padding be cleaned free of mold or must it be replaced? Since the air vents are in the floor, must the duct work be cleaned also? Since we haven't closed on the house, and the damages occurred while under contract is the seller legally obligated to clean these items? [Sept. 18, 2003]

     A. With water sitting in the house for 9 days, there is going to be possible mold infestation through out the house, including INSIDE affected walls, floors, ceilings, and heating/cooling ducts and registers. Mold grows by both physical growth of mold colonies and by air current movement of very light airborne mold spores generated by mold colonies during their spore reproduction. The carpeting and the padding are throwaways, but that is the least of the house mold problems. The costs of mold remediation will probably range from thousands of dollars to more than the value of the house. Learn the steps required for effective and safe mold remediation. If you buy this home, in addition to a huge remediation problem, you face likely family health problems and great difficulty in ever-reselling a house with a mold history. If you are still interested in purchasing this water damage and mold hell, you should hire the services of a Certified Mold Inspector for a thorough mold inspection and mold testing including INSIDE walls, ceilings, floors, and heating/cooling equipment and ducts. A comprehensive inspection will cost from $1000 to $2000 including mold lab analysis of collected mold samples and air samples. As to your legal rights against the seller, you need to consult with a local attorney. You can also learn about legal issues in the buying and selling of moldy houses and other real estate in the in depth book Mold Legal Guide.
 

       Q. Would you consider doing a mold inspection and possibly removal services for a split foyer home in Chattanooga.  Our home has a garage under half the house and a finished basement room under the other half.  The finished basement has old shag carpet on the floor, paneling on the three outside walls, sheet rock on the other wall, and old fuzzy Armstrong ceiling panels.  The house is 30 years old and so is the stuff just mentioned in the basement. We had a water problem about 12 years ago and did extensive outside work including digging to the bottom of the foundation along two sides of the room, tarring and putting up plastic panels on the outside walls, filling in with lots of gravel and a French drain that goes all the way to the street.  We did not do any work inside.  Over time we have had more and more damp smell occur in the basement and the air conditioning system brings some of the smell up throughout the house in the summer.  When the heat is used it is not noticeable.  We just had a heating & air conditioning company do a complete duct cleaning where they found lots of mold around the AC unit. We plan to remove all the carpet, walls and ceiling panels and to have the walls and floor disinfected and cleaned.  But, before having someone just rip all this out, we'd like to know what we have in the home and would like to take appropriate measures to clean it up.  We need someone who knows how to do mold remediation effectively. [June 5, 2003]
        A. To know all of the steps required for effective mold remediation, please read our easy to follow tips at: Mold Remediation.  Besides mold testing through out your home [including heating/air conditioning ducts] with either a Certified Mold Inspector or using do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. You should remove and throw away all basement carpeting, paneling and drywall. Test before and after such removal. With all of these materials removed, you or a Certified Mold Inspector can do a better job of inspecting and testing for mold [e.g., mold growing on the floor joists and in the floor above the basement]. If you find visible mold growth, it will have to be removed completely prior to  use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart.

      Q. My husband's shop was tested for airborne mold.  It came back saying it contained cladosporium sp. and penicillium sp.  How would we go about cleaning his tools, storage cabinets (metal & wood), etc? [May 30, 2003]
     A. Your first step is to find the water problem that has enabled the mold infestation to grow. Maybe the shop has sometime during the year high humidity of 60% upward that facilitates mold growth. Maybe there is a roof leak, siding leak, or plumbing leak that needs to be found and repaired. If there is any visible mold growth, it needs to be removed in accordance with the directions provided at Mold Remediation. The tools, storage cabinets, and other equipment can be wiped off with either denatured alcohol-wet cleaning cloths or with a mixture of 2 cups of Borax laundry soap per one gallon of distilled water. Borax is a natural mold cleaner and mold killer. You can use  low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes. If there is a heating/air conditioning duct going into the shop its air flow should be tested for elevated levels of airborne mold spores by using do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.
        
       Q.
After some recent window water damage to some of my windows I had an Environmental Firm come out and do a review of some areas of my home. They ended up saying that my sub floor and joists had a good deal of mold. This house is only four years old, we are the original owner, and there has been no water damage to the floors of the house. The consultant thinks the mold has been there since the house was built. I am sure this will be expensive to clean up and my insurance company now has an exclusion for this. [May 19, 2003]
 
      
A. Your first job is to stop the water problem that caused the mold growth. If these joists and sub floor are over a crawl space or a basement, you may have a humidity problem sometime therein sometime during the year that allows the mold to eat your home. If the humidity is above 60% in that area for more than 1 day, mold can begin growth. The higher the humidity above 60% the worse the problem. You also need to investigate the possibility of water intrusion from the ground [no effective moisture barrier over bare dirt] or water leaking or seeping inside that area. You can use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart  to remove all mold growth.
        
        Q. I am about to buy a house that has a lot of damage.. The house is only 700 sq ft. The roof was leaking in for quite some time and the house was abandoned. My uncle and I are going to rip down all of the drywall (both walls and ceiling) and replace the drywall and insulation along with completely redoing the roof but still using same trust boards. We are only going to replace the plywood and shingles. I would like to know what should I do to make sure that the house can become a healthy one. Where does one go to get professional help and what is a fair wage for these services so that I may not be taken advantage of. [May 13, 2003]
        A. It is very likely that the structural timbers will have deeply grown mold infestation and/or dry rot [caused by mold]. You can use  low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart.  to replace these timbers with new mold-free lumber. For more info on mold remediation chemicals, please visit: Mold Remediation and Mold Mart .  The only alternative to replacing the timbers is if the mold growth is on the timbers' surface only, in which case you could use a power planer and power grinder with a wire brush attachment to remove such surface mold.  With the building being in such very bad condition, you might be better off burning down the building and starting all over again. In other words, let's hope you are buying this property for its land value only [less debris hauling].

        Q. We recently ran a home mold test and found out that we have cladosporium species (large quantities) and penicillium species. The infestation is in our attic. We live in Massachusetts. How do you recommend we remove this mold? Do we need an outside contractor or is this something we can do ourselves? Do you suggest having a professional come and test the house beyond the attic where we tested? We had additional insulation installed in the attic and believe that it trapped moisture up there, leading to the mold. [April 22, 2003]
     
  A. Because mold can easily spread from the attic into ceilings and walls below and into hvac ducts, you should have the entire home carefully inspected and mold tested by a Certified Mold Inspector. If you want to do the inspection and testing yourself, buy a copy of our book Mold Health Book, follow the advice on the how to advice pages of Mold and Mold Inspector, and use our professional do-it-yourself mold inspection and mold remediation products found at Mold Mart . In removing mold from the attic, you can do it yourself if you carry out all of the helpful and easy-to-follow suggestions provided at: Mold Remediation. Doing your own mold removal is most practical if the amount of mold infestation is relatively small in area [e.g., under 10 to 20 square feet of infestation]. The most important factor in do it yourself mold remediation is that you do it both safely and effectively.  Hiring most mold remediation contractors is not an assurance that they will do an effective and safe mold repair job. At the conclusion of mold remediation jobs, if the property owner hired an independent Certified Mold Inspector to do what are called "clearance mold tests", most mold remediation jobs would be rated as failures because of remaining, unremediated high levels of both airborne mold spores and physical mold growth.       

        
Q. One of the corners inside our home has had a water leak. Because there were large peaces of furniture blocking the corner we've only recently noticed it. Today due to further inspection my husband noticed the flooring under our (wall to wall) carpeting is also wet. The roof is being fixed now and we are expecting a new baby any day. How can we get rid of the mold and stop it from returning? (As quickly as possible) Is there a product we can use that is effective and nontoxic?  [April 20, 2003]    

        A. You should first read all of the steps required for effective and safe mold removal and mold remediation. You can buy our do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware or home improvement store. After sealing off the moldy area to be fixed from the rest of the house by erecting plastic sheeting containment walls, and while using personal protective gear and at least a fan exhausting the air from the mold remediation area to the outside via a window or flexible duct pipe [or better yet, rent an industrial hepa filter], the suspect mold areas need to be opened up. All moldy materials will need to be put into double plastic bags for disposal. Use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart.


   
     Q. I am considering buying a house that has multiple roof leaks.  The inside of the house is very damp and there is mold and mildew growing on all the interior walls up to 6 feet above the floor.  What do I need to do to remove the mold and mildew after I repair the roof. [April 2, 2003]
        
A . Don't buy the house.  The mold remediation of this house will probably cost more than the house is worth.  To know more about how complex effective and safe mold remediation is, please visit: Mold Remediation.


         Q. We had a flood in our office during the last rain in 3 of our offices.  there was a definite mildew smell.  we have pulled up the carpet and will have new carpet put in over the weekend.  the offices have been wet before during previous rains and the landlords would have the water extracted from the carpets.  This time it was beyond doing the water extracting and the carpet was pulled. do we need mold testing? [April 1, 2003]
         A. Yes, you need mold inspection and mold testing of the insides of the walls touched by the floods, and of the air in the office, and of the hvac ducts to discover whether or not elevated levels of dangerous molds are present. Floods are very dangerous mold-wise because of the heavy wetting of the insides of floors, and any other affected areas reached by the flooding water. Hire a Certified Mold Inspector . Learn all about mold inspection, testing, and remediation by visiting Mold and Mold Inspector . You also need to make sure that the source of the flooding is permanently corrected by the landlord.

          
         Q.
A recent roof leak resulted in mold 3 days later in a closed linen  closet. There was a line several inches long in the ceiling crease. We had the mold tested and it showed high levels of aspergillus/penicillum and basidiospores. The air outside the closet showed minimal levels of alternaria and unidentified condida. We have tried unsuccessfully many times to get a bid for remediation from the people who did the testing. What do you suggest? Can we wallboard over the plaster wall with wallboard after using a fungicide? or does the plaster have to be torn out. Could this be done by a handyman or does the situation call for searching for another remediation co. We would appreciate your advice.  [March 31, 2003]      
        
A. You need to inspect and test for possible mold infestation IN the ceiling, ABOVE the ceiling, IN the walls, and IN the attic. Leaking water can cause mold growth where ever the water travels. Mold grows where water flows. You also need to test the air of the attic, other rooms, and hvac ducts for elevated levels of mold spores. Hire a Certified Mold Inspector, or by
using do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.  Once you know WHERE the mold growth and elevated levels of mold spores are present, you can do the mold removal work yourself by using the suggestions provided at Mold Remediation or use a Certified Mold Remediator.
         Q. We have a mould [note: non-USA spelling of mold] problem in our attic, due to lack of ventilation. It has been tested and discovered to be "Asperigillus Penicillum". I have reports off the internet that states that this mould can cause cancer, asthma, pulmonary mycosis etc.  My wife and kids vacated the house because I didn't want to take chances with their health. I would like to correct this mold problem myself, can you tell me how serious this is? Am I OK to stay in my house as long as the attic is blocked off with visqueen plastic sheeting? Most of the mould is (1) on the bottom side of the roof deck; (2) on the end of the insulation directly above the outside walls; and (3) some staining appears on the (attic side)-of the ceiling-drywall and but the mould has not bleed thru to be visible from the inside. The protocol, I am guessing, would be to wear protective gear and remove all shingles roof ply, attic insulation. Now, is it necessary to remove all drywall or can this be treated with bleach over the stains and only remove any severe stains??? [Feb. 15, 2003]

         A. Aspergillus and Penicillium are two of the top 3 dangerous molds. Your idea is excellent to seal off the attic area from the rest of the home with plastic sheeting while you do the mould remediation--- that safety procedure to contain the mould spores into the remediation area is called mould containment. To know whether it is safe for you to live downstairs during your mould removal efforts would require you to test the air in the rooms downstairs and in the hvac ducts and equipment to determine whether those areas contain elevated levels of mold spores, a condition that would be unhealthy for you. Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. Do not use bleach to kill mould because it doesn't---find out why bleach is a loser for mold killing by visiting Bleach and Mold. You goal is to replace ALL mold damaged or mold infested building materials. If the mold is growing into the attic top side of the drywall but does not appear visually from looking upwards at the ceiling in the rooms below, you still need to remove such mold laden drywall.  Besides, you can use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart  in removing all mold contaminated construction materials. For more info on proper protective gear, industrial hepa filters, and other important matters, please read the mold remediation and removal pages of both Mould and Mold Removal. 

         Q.
I have had a lot of moisture under the house, on and off for years and some flooding.  It apparently never totally dried out. We had to have some floor joists replaced due to  floor movement. I live at the shore. They are placing foundation fans under the house to dry it out.  There is a lot of mold. How can we treat it, when the contractor is still working?  [Feb. 11, 2003]
        

         A. You should inspect and mold test both the rooms inside your home and the area beneath your home to detect whether those areas harbor elevated levels of mold spores, and what types of mold species. If mold spores from beneath your home have contaminated the rest of your home, your health risks and mold remediation efforts and costs are going to be greater than if your mold problems exist only in the area beneath your home. To stop the mold problems, you will need to use a crawl space vent fan that turns on to exhaust outward high humidity air when the humidity level under your house exceeds 40%. You will need to stop your home flooding problem, whatever that entails your having to do. You need to remove and throw away all mold damaged materials and replace them with new, mold-free materials. you can use low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes. After you do the above steps, you should re-test both the rooms inside your home and the area beneath your home to detect whether those areas harbor elevated levels of mold spores. Please visit the mold testing and removal pages of Mold and Mold Inspector.

         Q.
We live outside of Baltimore, Maryland in a 7 year old house.  Late last week we had a copper pipe break in our hot water baseboard heating system.  About 6 gallons of H20 flooded our first floor from the bathroom above. We were able to catch most of the H20 in buckets, and wiped up the minimal amount left on the hardwood floors.  There is an area about 16 feet by 20 feet that appears to be affected in the drywall ceiling above.  Some of the insulation in the ceiling is wet. The insurance company was not able to send out a cleaning crew for 5 days.  The hardwood floor is completely dry, and there is no more dripping from the ceiling. The broken pipe is repaired. The cleaning company now wants to come out, set up a dehumidifier, and put some anti fungal agent on the floor.  I'm concerned that the agent will damage our hardwood floors and cause significant odors throughout the house. [Feb. 1, 2003]
        
A. You should test the discolor or destructive effect of the fungicide you wish to use on hardwood flooring, carpeting, etc. in an out of the way corner or spot under furniture before you use it.  Any smell from a fungicidal use will not stay in your home if the home is thoroughly aired out after the fungicide dries.  Any building materials inside the ceiling or walls that were wet for more than 24 hours have a great chance of causing serious mold growth. You need to take the mold threat to your home seriously if you don't want to destroy both your health and the value and the future sales prospects of your home. You need to hire a Certified Mold Inspector to do a careful inspection and testing of the entire house for elevated levels of mold spores and to use a fiber optics inspection device and mold testing inside ceiling and wall cavities that got wet in the flood. Spraying a fungicide is only good for killing mold that it hits. You need to remove all water and mold damaged building materials. Please read the mold removal and mold remediation pages on Mold and Mold Inspector.

          Q. We are having our house mold remediated and I inquired of our homeowner's insurance claims adjuster concerning our household contents. He said that I would not be allowed any contents mold removal monies because none of the porous items such as furniture, bedding, clothing, drapes, towels, sheets and items of such nature were directly damaged by the water leak that caused my mold problem. Is he right or just minimizing the amount that is due to our family that we deserve?  [Jan. 27, 2003] 
          A.  By having mold contamination in one place in your home, your home will almost certainly have airborne mold spores carried by air currents enter into all areas of your home and onto all of your personal property.  It is porous building materials and personal possessions which are the most difficult to remove mold infestation from because mold spores and mold colony growth into and inside the porous materials. Mold cannot enter and hide in non-porous materials such as Formica kitchen counters, non-upholstered wood furniture, and metal appliances such as your refrigerator, dryer,  clothes washer, and dishwasher.   Collecting for mold damage from insurance companies is very difficult. Your first step is to document the presence of mold spores and/or mold growth in elevated levels in your porous materials such as upholstered furniture, clothing, and carpeting/padding. If there is a serious mold problem in your porous possessions, you can prove it with the expert inspection, and testing services of a Certified Mold Inspector.
          Q. I have repaired a leak in the ceiling but there are bad water stains above my bed. The attic shows a little black mold on the ceiling drywall. What is the best method of removal, is there a spray or is patching the drywall the answer. (hard because of the popcorn ceiling)? [Jan. 8, 2003]
          A. Drywall that has had water damage and  mold growth needs to be replaced with new drywall. Do the entire ceiling to make sure you got all of the mold and to be your finishing/painting uniform in looks. Once you removed the damaged drywall, you will want to inspect and test the ceiling timbers for mold problems. Follow the mold removal tips provided at: Mold Remediation
.

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For mold inspection, mold remediation, and mold prevention for your real estate property anywhere in the world, please contact mold consultants Phillip Fry and Divine Montero by email phil@moldinspector.com or by phone
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How To Order Mold and Enviro Products by Phone and Email
PHONE ORDER: You can place your order by phoning mold consultant Phillip Fry Toll-Free 1-866-300-1616
or Phillip's cell phone 1-480-310-7970 USA/Canada, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Saturday.
EMAIL ORDER:  You can also email your order by printing, completing, and emailing the Email Order Form.

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Use high ozone blasting to kill mold, viruses, bacteria, and odors .

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Copyright 2014 Environmental Hygienists Association   All Rights Reserved  Last Updated: Nov. 28, 2014
For mold inspection, mold remediation, and mold prevention for your real estate property anywhere in the world, please contact
mold consultants Phillip Fry and Divine Fry  email phil@moldinspector.com or call Phillip Toll-Free 1-866-300-1616 or cell phone 1-480-310-7970