Also visit:
[More Photos] [New Home Q and A] [New-Home-Mold-News] [Home-Construction-Defects] [Colorado-Builder-Mold-Lawsuit] [Builder-Mold-Exclusion-Clauses] [House-Wrap] [Protect-Plywood] [OSB-Mold] [Pulte-Homes-Mold]
To
find a
Certified
Mold Inspector
or
Certified
Mold Remediator
in your area,
or to be trained & certified as a mold inspection, testing,
remediation, and prevention expert, please visit:
Certified Mold
Inspector.
Read
Mold Legal Guide
as an in depth introduction to both
sides of the key mold legal issues and of the essential claims and defenses
in mold lawsuits.
New Home Questions & Answers
For more
information on new home mold, please visit:
New Home Mold, plus these
web pages below---
[Up] [More Photos] [New Home Q and A] [New-Home-Mold-News] [Home-Construction-Defects] [Colorado-Builder-Mold-Lawsuit] [Builder-Mold-Exclusion-Clauses] [House-Wrap] [Protect-Plywood] [OSB-Mold] [Pulte-Homes-Mold]
Q. We are
builders and have houses with odors which we want to rid. Please send us
information on ridding houses of odors. [June 1, 2005]
A. To get rid of
mold stains and mold odors, use Borax laundry detergent, a natural
mold cleaner, in warm water. If your homes have a mold problem, you
should also consider searching for and fixing all moisture and water
problems that enable mold to grow in the first place. Using the Stain
Cleaner is most effective in mold remediation if you follow the 25 steps
for safe and effective
mold remediation Learn the mold problems of new homes at
New Home Mold.
Q.
Wow, thank you so much for such a quick and detailed reply. I have
carefully studied what you have written here including most of the tips
section too. I will bring this up at the meeting this morning. This gives
me the motivation to get your recommendations done as soon as possible -
our builder warrantee runs out on May 27 and maybe I can even get them to
be interested in helping do what they should have done in the first place,
due to their negligence damaging a child's health. But even without them
I will get this done immediately - we do have a contact person we got from
a neighbor who had some remediation done including the plastic barrier.
When we had an initial indoor ground water crawl space flood in 1998 or so
I went down and removed all the scrap wood and trash and dug and plumbed
my own sump pit and pump because the French drains the builder put in did
not work at all – their corner sump pit was dry while 50-75% of the area
in the lower spots was flooded. We were so disgusted with them at the
time that my wife did not even want them in the house to do a poor job of
redoing things so we did not even call them, which I regret. I have been
down there recently and verified the white-dust-looking mold is localized
to about 10 square feet of cumulative coverage on the floor joists but it
is near the access hole, with the hatch having been left open for a long
time. I sprayed all the mold I could see with Clorox a few months ago and
I often check on the ground, which does grow fluffy calcium crystals. I
usually don't notice a smell when I am in the unfinished area. Thank you
again for your kindly given time. You have helped me to get motivated to
get remediation under way immediately even if the doctor doesn't think it
caused the positive results to my young son's TB test! I can imagine it
has at least contributed to his two sinus infections this winter and
spring. [May 13, 2005]
A.
You need to send a certified letter now via certified letter to the
builder, with the letter containing very specific claims as to
construction defects. You might be wise to consult with a local attorney
as to your legal rights under the builder's warranty program and otherwise
under state law. As you know now, your use of bleach would have been
ineffective in permanently killing mold growth. Having a crawl space is
an invitation to mold disaster. You should consider covering the ground
with concrete containing adequate amounts of waterproofing compound to
make the concrete a very effective moisture barrier against water wicking
up from the ground. Is there a way for you to construct concrete/block
walls [with plenty of waterproofing compound] to keep the surface water
from EVER entering your crawl space? You also need to not only kill the
mold growing in the floor joists, but also to remove the growth in
accordance with the 25 steps for safe and effective
mold remediation. Crawl space mold can easily grow into the floors
and walls above. In addition, crawl space mold can travel in air currents
to mold cross contaminate your entire house and its heating/cooling system
by entering open windows and doors and the fresh air intake of your
heating/cooling system. You would be wise to mold inspect and mold test
your ENTIRE home. Follow the directions at
Mold Inspection.
Q.
Prior to signing the contract on the purchase of a new [name of
builder] home I was presented with the following "Disclosure".
"The framing package delivered to this home site was found to
contain active mold. The mold was pervasive but limited to the
second floor frame materials. Production was halted, the
contaminated surfaces were washed and sanitized, and moisture
levels were monitored until they reached [name of builder]
maximum standards of 15% or less, at which time construction
resumed." Should this be of concern to me? Does the home warrant
an inspection by a mold expert? [Jan. 19, 2005]
A.
Most mold remediation is done poorly because of ineffective mold
remediation procedures, poor worker training, and job shortcuts
taken by contractors and their employees. You don’t know how “the
contaminated surfaces wee washed and sanitized.” Usually washing
and sanitizing are not enough to get mold out of moldy timbers and
building materials. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective
mold remediation. To know whether the new home is mold-safe
for you to live in, you would need to hire your own
Certified Mold Inspector for in-depth mold inspection and
testing, including fiber optics inspection for hidden mold growth
inside ceilings, walls, floors, and the heating/cooling equipment
and ducts. Even if you can find and remediate all mold growth in
this new home, you would still own a home with a mold history
which you would probably have to disclose to a future buyer or
tenant. Learn about
new home mold problems. You need also to consult with your
attorney about the legal consequences to you of the mold
disclosure if your home and family suffer future mold damage
because of the allegedly-remediated mold problem.
Q.
I recently bought a brand new house and discovered a water leak while we
were moving in. We noticed standing water in our downstairs bathroom and
water dripping from the ceiling. We discovered a wet carpet and water
stains on the baseboards upstairs. Of course we shut off the water main
and called our builder representative and they started their standard
operating procedure for water intrusion. In that process they discovered
mold. We wont know what type until the results come back from the
hygienist. They said that a staple had penetrated a pipe when the stucco
was installed. How long do you think it would take for mold to form behind
a vanity kick plate in a house that's average temperature is about 70
degrees? [December 15, 2004]
A.
Mold can begin growing after the building materials have been wet for more
than 24 hours. A water line leak is really good news for mold to grow a
lot in a short time period. Your first mistake would be to rely upon the
mold inspection and testing services and recommendations of a mold
inspector hired by and loyal to the builder, rather than to you. You need
to hire a
Certified Mold Inspector to thoroughly mold inspect and mold test ALL
AROUND your home for elevated levels of airborne mold spores and mold
growth. The Inspector will need to check INSIDE walls and floors and
ceilings in the water leak area, and do testing in the basement, crawl
space, each room, attic, garage, and the outward air flow from each
heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels
of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test.
Most builders try to get away with the least they can do. Learn the 25
steps recommended for safe and effective
mold remediation. Also read about
new home mold.
Q.
I plan to build a new home in Yellow Springs Ohio. We want to
take all the reasonable steps to provide good air quality. We have
key concerns regarding the ductwork. What specific recommendations
do you have to reduce the possibility of mold growth in a new home
in the duct system and basement? [Nov. 30, 2004]
A. To prevent mold growth in the duct work and
heating/cooling equipment, consider such steps as using sheet
metal ducts [with no INTERNAL insulation to trap dirt and mold
spores and to foster mold growth]. The insulation of the ducts
should be on the outside of the ducts, isolated from the air flow
of the ducts themselves. Sheet metal ducts can be cleaned of mold
growth if necessary, whereas internally-insulated ducts and ducts
made of other materials become throw-aways during mold remediation
efforts. Install several high output ultraviolet lights inside the
system to kill airborne bacteria, viruses, and mold spores. In the
return air duct, it would be extremely useful to have a mass media
hepa filter, changeable hepa filter to capture incoming mold
spores. Mass media means about a 6 inches thick or thicker hepa
filter, and it requires special ductwork housing of course. You
order the mass media hepa filter to be installed with the system
from the beginning. Follow manufacturer's guidelines for the
cleaning and replacement cycles for the hepa filter itself [which
goes inside a housing unit in the return air duct].
Q.
We are currently building a home with XYZ Homes Inc. I have heard
conflicting advice about sealing concrete block prior to applying
stucco. Some have said that you should do it to prevent water
intrusion and XYZ Homes says not to do it because it will not
allow the concrete block to "breath" thus trapping moisture
between it and the drywall. What is your advice? [Nov. 26, 2004]
A.
Use an effective waterproofing sealant on the outside of the concrete
block is very advisable to help keep water out of your home. You should
also only install drywall in the finished home when you have done mold
pre-treatment of interior block surface, wood timbers used, and drywall
[both sides]. Use a hidden moisture meter to determine if the masonry wall
is dry enough to do interior finishing. You can use also a low-cost
Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart
. Make sure there is adequate ventilation in the
basement and that the indoor basement humidity stays less than 60%
including prior to your move in. You may need to use a
programmable dehumidifier to keep indoor humidity to a
mold-discouraging level [the best is 30 to 40%]. Read about
new
home mold.
Q. My wife and I are building a new home. Wet
weather has been a problem since we began framing. We have
noticed black spots on the wood where it has been wet in many
areas. Is this back mold ? What can we do to remove
it? We are very concerned about this!!! [Nov. 20, 2004]
A. If you want to protect both your health and wealth, don't
build a new home full of mold contamination. Learn about new home mold
at
New Home Mold
The black spots are mold. Either replace moldy timbers with mold-free
timbers or remove all mold growth, streaks, and spots with a combination
of a power planer, power grinder with wire brush attachment, and power
sander.
You can use also a low-cost
Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at
Mold Mart
. Learn the 25 steps recommended for safe and effective
mold remediation and
mold abatement.
Q. We purchased a brand new house on October 1st. Upon
reviewing the house for the 30 day checklist, we have found mold hanging
from the studs in the basement. Do you think there could be mold in the
main levels of the house? How should we proceed with the builder? [Nov.
24, 2004]
A. Learn about
new home mold Basement mold can
easily grow into the insides of the floors and walls above. In addition,
airborne mold spores from the basement mold can easily travel in air
currents to mold cross contaminate your entire house and heating/cooling
system. Learn the 25 recommended steps for effective and safe
mold
remediation and
mold abatement. You need to hire a
Certified Mold Inspector to do a thorough mold
inspection and testing of the home, including using fiber optics
inspection inside floors and walls above the basement mold.
Q.
My husband and I moved from Illinois in August 2003 to Indiana
where we build a new house and moved in November 2003. Since moving in to
our new house, I have been having problems with my sinuses. I have had
seven infections since moving and medicine does not seem to be doing
much. My 4 year old started having sinus infections to the point that he
would vomit because his head hurt so bad. He has since had his tonsils
and adenoids taken out and has still had some problems. I finally went to
an ENT to see what he had to say. I was sent home with some petri dishes
to set out in my home to see how many spores I would get in one. The
main level of our house was not too bad, however the master bedroom had
between 50 and 60 spores, with a greenish center. I was told by the
doctors office that we basically have a mold issue. I did contact the
builder and they sent someone out and they went into the attic and said
that they did not find any moisture, mold growing and that the vents from
the bathrooms were venting properly. The doctors office also said that
the mold issues that they have been seeing from other patients are not
very visible to the naked eye - that a professional has been coming to
these people homes to see what is going on. I don't know if we are just
overly sensitive to the airborne mold in our home or if we do have some
sort of an issue that needs to be addressed. I was just wondering if you
could give me some input on the truth to what the doctor is saying or if I
should just get some air purifiers and forget about the mold. [Oct. 21,
2004]
A. A study by the famous Mayo Clinic
discovered that over 90% of the patients with chronic sinusitis got it
from living in mold infestation. Your family's repeated sinus problems
tells you that you are living in a severely mold-contaminate home. Your
doctor is obviously well-informed. His advice to you about the health
damage caused by invisible airborne mold spores is truly wise on the
doctor's part. If you have a mold contamination problem in just one area
of your home, it can spread by internal growth hidden inside walls,
ceilings, floors, attic, basement/crawl space, and the heating/cooling
equipment and ducts. In addition, air current movements can transport
airborne mold spores to mold cross contaminate your entire house and its
heating/cooling system. You would be wise to read our in depth book
Mold Health Guide, available at
Mold Mart Your first step for getting rid of mold is to
use our do it yourself mold test kits to mold test ALL of your entire home
for mold infestation both before and after mold remediation efforts. This
total home mold testing is especially helpful since your initial mold
testing revealed a serious mold problem. Alternatively, have your home
professionally inspected and mold tested by a
Certified Mold Inspector. Most mold removal efforts
fail because of the failure to follow the
mold abatement procedures required for safe and effective
mold remediation.
Test the air of any attic/basement/crawl space, garage, each room, and the
outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible
presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to your
outdoor mold control test.
Use do it yourself
mold test kits available from a large hardware, home improvement, or
safety store.
You should also collect samples of any visible mold for mold lab analysis
and mold lab mold species identification by using the Scotch tape lift
sampling technique explained on the mold test kit instructions provided by
do it yourself mold test kit.. Collect a different mold sample from
each different mold growth location.
Mold
Problems from a number of Construction Defects
Q. I just bought a new house we
close on 8/6/04. How can I keep my home mold-free. What preventive measures
can We take. Where does mold usually show up in a new home? Am I covered
for mold in my home owner’s insurance? [August 6, 2004]
A.
Mold problems will first show up in a new home in the testing of indoor
air for elevated levels of airborne mold spores. Most insurance policies
exclude mold damage. If possible, delay the closing on the house until you
have had the opportunity to have the home mold inspected and mold tested
by a Certified Mold Inspector. Even though the house is
new, it is very possible, and even very likely, that the home has built-in
mold problems from a number of construction defects and procedures
utilized by the home builder. Read all about
new home mold problems,
plus
mold remediation tips. While a home is still
under construction [at the framing stage], all timbers, plywood, and
drywall need to be sprayed with at least one coating of a strong fungicide
on all surfaces, followed [after drying] by one wet spraying of an
EPA-registered
wood protectant. Visit:
Mold Mart for product information Assuming that the new
home is actually mold-safe, your next step is to make sure that the
landscaping of the grounds facilitates water running away from the house,
and not toward the house [causing possible water intrusion]. Regularly
check your roof and siding for damage that could allow water entry into
your home. Monitor your indoor plumbing lines and sewage lines against
hidden water leaks inside walls, floors, and ceilings with a hidden
moisture meter. Another preventive step is use a $30
digital hygrometer to monitor year-round the indoor humidity of your
basement, crawl space, each room, attic, and garage. Your goal is to keep
the indoor humidity at a mold-discouraging 30 to 40 percent. If the indoor
humidity exceeds 60 percent, you have invited mold to be a permanent guest
in your home. Learn many more mold preventive steps in the ebook
Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing, and Remediation,
available from Mold Mart.
Q. We
are in the process of designing and building a new home.
What precautions should we take to prevent future mold
infestation in our home? [June 3, 2004]
A..
To prevent mold growth in new home construction, all wood, plywood,
chipboard, drywall, and other cellulose-based construction materials must
never be stored on the ground during construction, or be left uncovered
outdoors [to keep the materials dry if it rains]. To provide a defense
against mold growth, until the house is completely shingled and sided and
windows and doors installed, the house-under-construction should be
covered completely at the end of every work day to keep the home from
being rained on. Beneath your roof shingles should be a high-quality
roofing membrane to waterproof your proof. Covering every night is
time-consuming, but it is far better than owning a mold-infested home
which will harm both your health and your finances. Inspect all timbers
and building materials for visual evidence of mold growth [e.g., black or
dark blue or green stains on timbers].
You can use also a low-cost
Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at
Mold Mart .
Make sure your plumbing water supply,
drain, and sewer pipes and plumbing fixtures are of the
highest quality and installed by a master plumber, and
not by some untrained illegal immigrants [a huge quality
control problem in the home building industry]. Be sure
your concrete floor slab, garage concrete floor, and
basement floors and walls are built with sufficient
amounts of waterproofing compound mixed into the
concrete to make the concrete absolutely impervious to
water penetration. Install a high quality water proof
barrier [not just plastic sheeting] beneath concrete
floors as an additional water barrier to keep water from
rising out of the ground to wet the concrete and
therefore the wood walls resting on the concrete floors.
When you first have water running in your plumbing
system, use a hidden moisture meter to scan
all floors, walls, and ceilings for hidden water leaks.
Make sure your heating/cooling ducts are made of sheet
metal with any insulation being on the outside of the
ducts, not inside the ducts. Sheet metal ducts without
insulation inside can be cleaned of mold contamination
if ever necessary in the future. Make sure all dryer,
kitchen, and bathroom vents go by well-connected pipe
directly outdoors and not in the attic, crawl space, or
walls or ceiling. Install high-capacity ultraviolet lights
[388,000 uwats per second of exposure to air
movement] in the return air ducts of your
heating/cooling system to kill all airborne mold spores
and other biological airborne threats.. Install a "mass
media", very thick hepa filter in the return air duct to
filter out airborne mold spores and other pollutants.
Q.
We are building a new home. The
building project started around February and the wood has been exposed to
rain from that time although early in the year we had little rain. The
house has been framed for at least 2 months or more but the roof is not
completed yet. Over the past month we have had a lot of rain which has
caused the interior wood to get wet numerous times. We have had some
spots of mold growth appear, some I would classify as severe and other
spots less severe. Some of these can be remedied by removing and
replacing the sub floor material. There are spots however where the
material cannot be removed and replaced for various reasons [plywood that
is under a load bearing roof line or under heat & air units for
example]. Before we continue I am looking for advice on what can be done
to minimize and mold problems in the future related to this. I am
chemically sensitive and have had sensitivities to molds as well.
The builder is willing to [because I have expressed
concern] remove any sub flooring that can be removed that has visable
signs of mold and then spray what cannot be removed [only where mold is
visable]. I have only addressed with him the areas where mold is visible
which at this point is only on subfloor material. Most of the wood
throughout the house has gotten extremely wet [soaked] numerous times.
The builder does not understand the potential problems that mold can cause
as he feels that killing the visible mold will remedy the situation. I
feel certain that our extremely expensive new home is now be set up to
have mold problems - possibly extensive problems. My husband says that
this is common when building a new home. The wood on all new homes gets
wet regularly until the roof is on and that it causes no problems.We live
in Alabama and I feel sure that I will need to get an expert to look at
the situation and provide recommendations. After reading some of the
information on your site I wonder if the house will need to be demolished.
Any information or help you could provide would be very appreciated. As a
side note I have spent a great deal of extra money on the house trying to
create a healthy indoor environment due to my chemical sensitivities. It
is very disheartening to think that our new home will not be healthy.
[June 4, 2004]
A.
Your home will have a massive mold
infestation problem. Of course, many new homes get rained on during
construction, and they get mold-infected in the process. Read
New Home Mold
You will need to mold test the surfaces of all of the timbers and
plywoods for mold infestation that is not yet apparent. You will need to
either replace moldy timbers and lumber, or remove the surface mold [if
only on the surface] with power grinder using a wire brush attachment,
power planer, and power sander. It is usually cheaper to replace with
mold-free lumber than to clean it in view of high labor cost to do so.
After doing the above, all timbers, plywood, chipboard, drywall, and
other cellulose-based building materials need to be sprayed with two wet
sprayings of EPA-registered fungicide [drying in between sprayings], and
then two wet sprayings of a wood mold protectant. Read the special
study Mold Home Remedy
Recipes to make your own protective spray for wood. You can read the Material Safety Data Sheets for ingredients
to ask your doctor about those products and your chemical sensitivity,
but usually, after drying, both chemicals are health-wise inert to you.
Of course, you should not be present during spraying which requires
safety precautions. You very much need to read the following: (1) safe
and effective
mold remediation
steps; and (2) our books
Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention,
Inspection, Testing, and Remediation,
plus the book Mold Legal Guide. Both books are available at
Mold Store
Q.
We are in the process of designing and building a new home. What
precautions should we take to prevent future mold infestation in our
home? [June 3, 2004]
A. All wood, plywood, chipboard,
drywall, and other cellulose-based construction materials must never be
stored on the ground during construction, or be left uncovered outdoors
[to keep the materials dry if it rains]. Until the house is completely
shingled and sided and windows and doors installed, the
house-under-construction should be covered completely at the end of every
work day to keep the home from being rained on. Beneath your roof shingles
should be a high-quality roofing membrane to waterproof your
proof. Covering every night is time-consuming, but it is far better than
owning a mold-infested home which will harm both your health and your
finances. Inspect all timbers and building materials for visual evidence
of mold growth [e.g., black or dark blue or green stains on timbers].
Spray all timbers, plywood, chipboard, drywall, etc. on all surfaces with
at least two set sprayings of a
Mold Home Remedy Recipe, with drying in between the sprayings. Make
sure your plumbing water supply, drain, and sewer pipes and plumbing
fixtures are of the highest quality and installed by a master plumber, and
not by some untrained illegal immigrants [a huge quality control problem
in the home building industry]. Be sure your concrete floor slab, garage
concrete floor, and basement floors and walls are built with sufficient
amounts of waterproofing compound mixed into the concrete to make the
concrete absolutely impervious to water penetration. Install a high
quality water proof barrier [not just plastic sheeting] beneath concrete
floors as an additional water barrier to keep water from rising out of the
ground to wet the concrete and therefore the wood walls resting on the
concrete floors. When you first have water running in your plumbing
system, use a hidden moisture meter to scan all floors, walls,
and ceilings for hidden water leaks. Make sure your heating/cooling ducts
are made of sheet metal with any insulation being on the outside of the
ducts, not inside the ducts. Sheet metal ducts without insulation inside
can be cleaned of mold contamination if ever necessary in the future. Make
sure all dryer, kitchen, and bathroom vents go by well-connected pipe
directly outdoors and not in the attic, crawl space, or walls or ceiling.
Install high-capacity ultraviolet lights [388,000 uwats per
second of exposure to air movement] in the return air ducts of your
heating/cooling system to kill all airborne mold spores and other
biological airborne threats.. Install a "mass media", very thick hepa
filter in the return air duct to filter out airborne mold spores and other
pollutants.
Q. I am building a new home and am suppose to move in in three
days. When we went to see it today we saw water on the patio and traced
it back to the bathroom. Something happened to a pipe and we saw results
of the bathroom being flooded at some point. There were two molded boards
laying in the bathroom. Also, water stains on the wall and wet under the
vinyl on the floor. It also ran onto the bedroom rug. What can the
builder do about the inside of the wall? I will have them replace the
tile and the carpet but what about the inside of the wall? Thank you so
much for your quick response. I know all the problems with mold but what
can we except the builder to do short of tearing the wall out. [May 17,
2004]
A. The first non-invasive step [thru one-half inch entry holes
made into each wall cavity] would be to hire a
Certified
Mold Inspector to use fiber optics to inspect all affected wall
cavities for visible mold growth and to do mold air testing inside the
walls. If visual interior inspection or mold test results document an
internal wall mold infestation, then the wall will have to be opened up in
accordance with mold remediation standards explained at
http://www.moldinspector.com/mold_removal.htm
In addition, the CMI can use his or her hidden moisture meter to scan all
walls, ceilings, and floors for possible hidden water problems. Then the
CMI should mold test the air of each room, attic, basement/crawl space,
and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the
possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in
comparison to an outdoor mold control test which he or she needs to also
do. Learn the steps required for safe and effective mold remediation at
http://www.moldinspector.com/mold_removal.htm
Q.
I just bought a new home a month ago. When I was going through my
final walk through before settlement, the entire unfinished basement was
wet. I asked why and the project manager said that they had just power
washed the basement as a part of their cleanup process. When they power
washed the
basement they also soaked the bottom half of the silver backed insulation.
Over 30 days later the basement is still damp along every wall from the
insulation and we now have visible mold growing behind and on the stairs and
also in the rafters. The only thing the builder has done is give us a
dehumidifier and a fan to use but that still has not helped. Who can I
contact to test what type of mold this is and what can I do? The builder
keeps putting us off like this isn't a big deal. I'm now have constant
congestion and headaches everyday. Thanks in advance for your help. [July
17, 2003]
A.
You must get this big mold problem remediated effectively
to your satisfaction if you won't want to harm your family's health and
financial well-being [by owning a moldy home that cannot be resold in the
future]. All of the mold damaged building materials need to be removed and
thrown away. All mold growth on timbers will need to be removed or the
timbers replaced. The cleaned out area will need to be sprayed with 2 wet
coatings of fungicide and 2 wet coatings of a
mold home remedy recipe
antifungal coating. Read ALL of the steps required for safe
and effective mold remediation at:
Mold
Removal and
Mold Mart. You need to mold test the
following NOW [before mold remediation] and then afterwards: (1)
the affected basement walls---use lift tape sampling; (2) the
room air of the basement, all rooms of the house above the
basement, and the attic for the possibility of elevated levels
of airborne mold spores, which, if present, would indicate a
serious mold infestation inside your home; and (3} the air flow
out of the heating/cooling duct registers for the possibility of
elevated levels of mold spores. You should use one of our
Certified Mold Inspectors [Certified
Mold Inspector, or
using do it yourself
mold test kits available from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety
store.
Q.
I am currently in the process of having a new home built. The house trusses
where left uncovered in the mud and rain for well about a month. I started
to notice black spots forming on the trusses I had take a swab sample and it
did come back positive for many i different molds. I asked the builder to
replace the trusses and there answer was no after they put the trusses on
the house I had a mold inspector come out and sample he got it the results
and the results where high in colony count so the builder had the trusses
sprayed I requested for the MSDS for chemical compound however it was a
patent formula so they did not have to divulge the chemicals. These where
the first results prior spraying:
Aureobasidium
293,000 180 88
Cladosporium
15,400 180 5
Penicillium species
Var. 1
15,400 180 5
Trichoderma
7,720 180 2
Now these are the levels after spraying:
Cladosporium was detected on a non viable
swab
Aureobasidium
1,290 180 64
Monilia sitophila
184 180 9
Unidentified Colonies
552 180 27
I am still concerned about the growth since when the inspector did a bulk
sample you can see the growth under the wood. What be a suggestion on proper
remediation since the trusses have been up we have noticed growth on the
stud boards. I contacted some home insurance companies and some have refused
coverage due to the mold issue, and I have also heard resale of a house with
mold can pose a problem due to the requirements of disclosure thus it will
bring down property value [June 27, 2003]
A.
Leaving the trusses out in the mud and rain for so long is a
guaranteed way to make the trusses unusable due to mold
infestation on and INSIDE the timbers. Mold testing of the
surface is not enough---the timbers would have to have no mold
growth INSIDE the trusses to be mold-safe---thus mold testing
inside the timbers is required.. Spraying visible mold is NOT
enough for effective mold problem treatment. Mold needs to be
both killed and removed, and then re-sprayed with both
EPA-registered fungicide and an EPA-registered antimicrobial
protective coating. The visible mold is very
likely growing INTO the timbers and will continue to grow and
spread unless removed by power planning and wire brush
attachment to a grinder. Mold testing needs to be done INSIDE
the roof trusses Since this is a new house, you should insist on
replacement of the moldy trusses with mold-free, mold
chemically-treated new trusses. If you want to avoid health
damage to your family and the financial ruin of owning an unsaleable
home with a history of a serious mold infestation problem, you
need to stand firm in getting new, chemically-protected
[EPA-registered antimicrobial coating in 2 wet
sprayings each] trusses. If the builder will not voluntarily do
this absolutely essential replacement, you need to contact an
environmental attorney to help you [Mold
Lawyer]. You will also need to re-inspect and mold test the
entire house after the replacement of the roof trusses because
it is very likely that airborne mold spores from the roof
trusses have cross-contaminated other areas of your house
including any already-installed heating and air conditioning
equipment and duct work. As one additional note, the
failure of the builder and the fungicide manufacturer to reveal
the contents of the fungicide used on your home is probably a
health and safety violation of state and federal environmental
laws. Use only EPA-registered fungicides which have adequate
product safety disclosures on the products Material Safety Data
Sheets {MSDS).
Q. After moving into our new
country style home in August of 2002, we noticed black mold along
the bottom of our windows (we have forty windows). The previous
owners tried the hide the mold by painting the cocking along the
bottom of the windows but when I washed the windows the paint came
off and I could see all the mold. After several weeks the bottom
of the windows started to show patches of mold. We have a 14 month
old baby and a seven and eight year old and we are very concerned
about the health risk of the mold. How can we find out if the mold
is toxic? [April
28, 2003]
A.
To identify the mold species to know how dangerous/toxic it
might be, you should collect a physical sample of the window
mold growth, or use the Scotch tape lift sampling technique and to send this sample to
a Mold Laboratory for mold
analysis and mold identification. You should also use
do it
yourself mold test kits available from a large hardware, home
improvement, or safety store. to sample the air in the various rooms of your home to
determine whether any or all of the rooms have elevated levels
of airborne mold spores, a sure sign that you have a serious
mold infestation problem. You will need to remove all of the
materials that have mold growth, treat the cleaned out areas
with fungicide and an EPA-registered
antimicrobial coating, and then re-grout with new glass grout.
You also need to find the water source that drives this window
mold growth. One very likely cause is that during part or all of
the year, the rooms may have too high a humidity. Buy a digital
hygrometer [about $30] in the thermometer section of Lowe's or
Home Depot to check the humidity level of each of your rooms,
attic, crawl space, and basement on a year-round basis. A
humidity level of 30 to 40% discourages mold growth. A humidity
level above 60% makes mold growth possible water-wise. The
higher the humidity is above 60%, the worse the mold problem.
Q.
We are in the process of building a new home and during
construction the workers had a mishap. When the plumber installed the
pipes, he did not close all the valves, thus when a brick worker turned
on a faucet to get
water, the master bath upstairs and the kitchen downstairs began to
flood. The damage seems to be minimal but I am worried about future
problems from this water damage. The builder dried up all the excess
water and ran our air exchange system for 2 days. The sheet rock seem in
the kitchen ceiling had approximately a 6 foot bulge and the builder
said that they only needed to replace the seam. Also about a 4 foot
circumference of the newly installed hardwood floor began to mildly warp
in the kitchen on the main floor. The builder said that all they need do
after it dried was sand out the warped areas and the floor would be
fine. Am I being misled by my builder, or could the damage described be
repaired so easily. I am spending a lot of money on the house and do not
want future problems such as warping in the ceiling or flooring and mold
damage down the road. What is your advice?
[Feb. 13, 2003]
A. You are wise to worry
about the possibility of mold growing inside building materials and
inside walls and ceilings from that flood. You need to have all of the
same, plus the room air the various rooms of your home, inspected and
tested by a
Certified Mold
Inspector. Mold infestation inside your home can destroy
the value of your home and harm your family's health in a big way. To
read more about the problem of new home mold, please visit:
New
Home Mold. It would be a good precaution to remove all
water damaged building materials, throw them away, and then treat the
affected area with two wet sprayings of the fungicide and then two wet sprayings of
an EPA-registered antimicrobial coating.
Of course, the builder will tell you there is no mold problem because:
(1) most builders are not well-informed on mold issues; and (2) the
builder does not want to spend much money repairing any water and mold
damage caused by the flood.
Q.
Thanks for being out there! I
visited the site of our lot where our new home is being constructed. The
first floor is down and the the basic first floor of the structure is
up. It has been snowing, warming up and the snow has been melting
during this time. I noticed mold on the underside, in the rafters on at
least half of the house. There are still some icicles hanging from the
rafters. On the first floor the wafer board is soaked and the melting
snow can be heard dripping down into the basement. At first I thought
that the builder might have something he could spray on this and kill
the mold. I then went to Lowe's to ask some questions. An assistant
manager there suggested I have the builder cut the bad pieces out and
replace them. I asked him if we could spray the wood with bleach water
to kill the mold. He said you might be able to try that but the mold
would probably keep coming back. He said you might be able to spray it
with Kilz but he wasn't sure and referred me to the contractors desk for
more advice. Those folks aren't in on Sunday so I drove home just about
as down in the dumps as I've ever been. I could not find an inspector
for the Clarksville, TN area so I'm wondering if you can help me???
Where do I start, what should I do. I'll call the builder's office
tomorrow and see if he is aware that we've got a serious problem. I
just cringe thinking that we are spending all our savings on this house
and it's already making me sick. We "HAD" lots of plans for the house
but I don't know now. I think about the insulation under the house being
next to the mold and we were going to put in a drop ceiling but I can't
imagine doing that now. [Feb.
10, 2003]
A. The water damage and the
resulting mold growth have to be dealt with by strong measures. First,
you should test the mold with our do-it-yourself mold test kits
available at a large hardware, home improvement, or saety store to know
what types of molds are already growing in your new home under
construction. Second, for professional inspecting
and mold testing of your mold problem, hire a
Certified Mold Inspector in
your area. Third, you should read the
New Home Mold. Fourth, you need to require that
the builder REMOVE all moldy lumber and replace it with mold-free
lumber. The advice you received from the Lowe's assistant manager to cut
out bad lumber pieces and that bleach isn't a permanent mold kill is
correct. His suggestion about Kilz is wrong because Kilz does not kill
mold. It hides blemishes in preparation for painting. The home needs to
be covered on its roof and exterior walls/windows with plastic sheeting
to keep out rain and snow at the end of each construction day. All new
building materials need to be inspected for mold problems before use and
stored off the ground and under plastic sheeting. After all moldy
materials have been replaced, the house timbers, plywood, and all other
construction materials need to be inspected by either yourself or a
Certified Mold Inspector to make sure no moldy lumber has been used.
After such successful examination, all timbers, plywood, chipboard, etc.
needs to be sprayed with 2 coatings of fungicide and then with two
coatings of an EPA-registered anti-microbial coating. Read the 25
steps for safe and effective
mold removal.
Q.
We had a new home built with a full poured-concrete basement less than 2
years ago. Recently, we discovered several areas in the basement (which
has a walk-out wood framed wall on the south side) where water was
condensing on the concrete walls. The southwest and northwest corners
had the most condensation with moderate amounts of mold growth, which we
scrubbed off with bleach water. Less than a week ago, we discovered a
more menacing problem beneath the landing at the bottom of the basement
stairs. There was a high degree of moisture behind the fiberglass
insulation on the OSB board (there is no plastic vapor barrier or
drywall here). It was wet (with visible mold growth) as far up the OSB
as we could reach. The contractor that built our house may be able to
come and more thoroughly assess the problem next week. Your input would
be greatly appreciated as would an estimate of the cost charged for
inspection and testing of specific mold growth spots. We live in
Southeast Indiana. [Feb. 7, 2003]
A.
Bleach is NOT an effective mold disinfectant. Learn why and what you
should really use to kill mold at
Mold Killer.
Your first step is to document the extent of your mold problem with a
very thorough toxic mold inspection and mold testing in all rooms of
your home, plus attic, and hvac ducts. Yes, with the serious mold
problem you are experiencing, you will have airborne toxic mold spores
traveling and landing through out your home and contaminating your
entire home, including your home hvac equipment and ducts. Most
Certified Mold Inspectors are also
Certified Mold Remediators or
Certified Mold Contractors. Thus, you can obtain a
detailed bid for getting rid of the mold from your home from our
company's mold professional who serves your area. In removing the mold
from your home, you need to follow the mold remediation and
mold removal advice. Your most
important task is to stop the entry of water into your home, whether the
water entry is by wall leaks, plumbing leaks, condensation of high
humidity, etc. Your
Certified Mold Inspector will try to find the
water source of your mold problem. The condensation on the walls is
probably a direct result of high humidity inside your home. Your
inspector will use a digital hygrometer to check and record the humidity
percentage of every area of your home. Above 60% humidity is a sure
invitation for mold growth. Your targeted humidity level [through the
use of programmable dehumidifiers] is 30 to 40%, a low humidity level
that discourages mold growth.
Q.
My mother is allergic to mold, (I think, anyway), because since moving
into a basement condo she has been constantly sick.
She also suffers from pain in her hips and joints. While staying
in my house her joints stop hurting. This is why I think it could be her
condo. I also was thinking
maybe mold was causing her constant sinus infections and sore throats. I
have talked her into building a small new house with a basement. I
talked her out of a slab foundation for fear of mold problems. So my
question.... How can we be sure that the new house will be Ok?
Is there some kind of mold inspection that can be done prior to
her moving in? I would hate for her to have to go through anymore
problems. She is older with heart problems and just had to have her
tonsils out because of all the infections. She is in her 60's! Kind of
hard on her to have tonsils out at that age. I am concerned because
there is a lot of water that lays on the ground. They assured us that it
would be taken care of, but I do not trust builders much anymore after
my bad experiences. [Feb. 4, 2003]
A.
You need to work with an architect to protect you in the design and
building of the new home. Some of the issues that the architect will
worry about is to make sure that: (1) the building site has good
drainage AWAY from the home; (2) that the foundations and basement walls
are properly waterproofed and that there is a water drainage system
installed underground around the foundation and basement walls to carry
water away from the basement foundation, walls and floors [e.g., by
utilizing such items as pea gravel around drainage pipes in holes to
carry water away by gravity or to an outdoor sump pump]; (3) keeping the
under construction home covered in plastic sheeting to protect it
against rain when the workers go home after every work day; (4) keeping
building materials off the ground and covered completely and securing
with plastic sheeting; (5) building the home with mold-free building
materials instead of commonly use moldy construction materials; (6)
installation of an exterior moisture barrier beneath the exterior siding
or other exterior skin of the home; (7) installation of a mass media
hepa filter into the return duct of the hvac system; (8) installation of
powerful ultraviolet lights [to kill mold and other biological
contaminants] in the hvac ducts; and (9) overall, to make the home
waterproof. If there is no water problem, there is no mold problem. You
can also hire one of our Certified
Mold Inspectors to be your mold consultant for the design
and building of your mother's healthy home, and to watch over the
construction in progress to make sure that thre is no built-in water or
mold problem. Please visit: New
Home Mold.
Q. Back
in the spring of 2001. MY HUSBAND AND I BOUGHT OUR NEW HOME. IN
JANUARY WE NOTICED OUR KITCHEN FLOOR WAS CHANGING COLORS, IN THE
SHADES OF BLACK, PINK, PURPLE AND YELLOW. WHEN INSPECTING
OUR CEILINGS IN OUR BASEMENT WE FOUND LARGE AMOUNTS OF MOLD. IT
WENT THROUGH OUR SUB FLOOR AND THROUGH OUR KITCHEN TILE. WITH IN THE
LAST TWO MONTHS BOTH OF MY PETS HAVE BEEN SICK. WE HAVE A PUPPY WHICH
GETS BLEEDING FROM HIS NOSE AND MOUTH. AND ALWAYS PANTING. THE OTHER
DOGS HAS HAD MANY PROBLEMS WITH HER LEGS, ALWAYS HAVING MAJOR PROBLEMS
GETTING UP AFTER LYING DOWN. AS FOR ME I JUST IN THE LAST FEW MONTHS
HAVE HAD MAJOR SINUS PROBLEMS, HIVES ON MY SKIN. CYSTIC INFECTIONS
ON MY FACE, DARK CIRCLES UNDER MY EYES. AND JUST LAST MONDAY I HAD A
MAJOR BREATHING ATTACK. WHICH ALSO GAVE ME FLU LIKE SYMPTOMS. HIGH
FEVER, HEAD ACHES AND CHEST TIGHTENING AS WELL AS SHORTNESS OF BREATH. I
JUST THOUGH THAT ALL THIS WAS BROUGHT ON BY STRESS, NEVER THINKING
IT WAS THE MOLD. WE WERE TOLD THAT IF OUR HOUSE HAS MOLD WE CAN'T SELL
IT. IS THIS TRUE?????? IS OUR HEALTH AND OUR HEALTH OF ARE PETS A RISK?
WHAT DO WE DO????????? PLEASE HELP. [July 6, 2002]
A.
The large amounts of visible mold and the serious health problems which
you and your pets are experiencing should suggest to you that your home
is possibly not safe to live in until you arrange for your home to have
a mold inspection, mold testing, and mold remediation. You and your pets
need to find a much healthier place to live NOW until you eliminate your
mold infestation problem. Follow the mold inspection suggestions found
at
Mold Testing.
Follow the mold removal tips found at
Mold Removal.
Yes, you may find it very difficult to sell a mold infested home for at
least 3 reasons: (a) buyers are learning to avoid homes that have
environmental problems like mold infestation; (b) you will have to
disclose the existence of the mold infestation to all prospective buyers
if you don't completely remove the mold contamination and have your
property pass a mold clearance test [after mold remediation]; and (c)
many smart buyers now put and utilize mold inspection and mold testing
provisions into the home purchase contract as one of the conditions of
the contract that must be satisfactorily resolved prior to the closing
of the home's purchase.
[June 27, 2002]
Q. I
am a new home purchaser in the Daytona Beach Florida area. My home is
being
built by ____ Company and the home is in the pre-stucco stage. Dry wall
has been installed too. It has rained constantly for the last two weeks,
and the block is very wet, as well as some of the drywall, due to the
lack of stucco that has allowed rain to drip into sections of framing
and drywall. There is actually one area that has standing water on the
foundation. Do I need to be concerned about mold? It is likely that the
insulation is wet too. What should be my next course of action?
With the recent news on mold litigation and health problems, I am
concerned. [June 27, 2002]
A.
Your first step is to hire a
Certified
Mold Inspector
to carefully inspect the home and to mold test the construction
materials that have been wet for over 24 hours [the time period required
for mold to start eating your home]. Find a
Certified
Mold Inspector..
If you do not pay for your own expert outside testing, you will never
know whether your home already has mold growing in it now. Having test
results in hand that indicate a serious mold problem will help you
motivate the builder to remove water and mold damaged building materials
and to chemically treat the affected areas. Please follow the
remediation steps at:
Mold Removal.
If you do not want to live in a mold hell, you must make sure that your
home is thoroughly tested, and then thoroughly remediated if mold has
started to grow on the drywall, wood timbers, stucco, insulation, etc.
Q. I
am having a new home built in Springfield, Missouri area. Rainfall was
high during initial stages of construction. Home is closed in and roof
is on. Subfloors and studs are still exposed. Testing reveals presence
of mold. What would you recommend be done at this stage to take care of
this new home mold problem?
A.
Replace all moldy lumber with mold-free lumber and then treat the entire
framing and plywood/chipboards/subfloors/underside of roof decking of
home with combination of mold fungicide and an EPA-registered
antimicrobial coating [separately treatment
procedures, of course]. For more info on mold removal, please visit:
Mold Removal.
[June 21, 2002]
Q.
I am in the process of buying a new modular home. While delivering my
home to the lot, the driver struck a traffic light causing a leak in the
roof. The home was not set on the foundation nor sealed for 2-3 weeks.
After the home was set, I noticed that my 8 year old daughter's room had
suffered serious water damage. (my daughter has asthma and has allergies
one of them being mold) The ceiling, wall and carpet were all wet. The
Builder replaced the ceiling drywall, trim and painted the wall with
Kilz to the kill the green mold. They have told me that the carpet is
fine. The carpet has a musty smell and discoloration. I have insisted
that the carpet be replaced and would like to have your opinion. [May
19, 2002]
A.
Have everything [including carpeting and padding, and maybe even the
floor beneath the wet carpet area] that was wet removed and replaced
with new or you will have permanent mold problems and major health
effects. If necessary, hire a lawyer to write a warning letter to both
the builder and the modular home manufacturer, and maybe even to the
transport company that actually damaged your home. You must replace with
new---accept nothing short of that! Kilz does NOT kill mold or anything.
It covers up water stained areas as a paint primer to prepare the
surface for a new coat of paint. After replacement with new items, have
your home mold tested to make sure that is no residual mold infestation.
Learn about testing by visiting:
Mold Testing.
Q.
I am in the process
of having a house built, and I have some concerns about possible
mold problems in the future. The house has not been wrapped or
sided, and insulation has been put in place. With the heavy
rainfall over the past few days, a good portion of the insulation has
been
saturated with water. My husband went to the site and found that
the drywallers are hanging drywall right over this wet insulation.
We were told by the builder, that the wet insulation is not a concern as
it will eventually dry. I think that is a ridiculous comment.
Doesn't it make sense to
protect the home from the elements first and then put the
insulation and drywall? [May 2, 2002]
A.
You should consider stopping construction, and having the insides of the
walls and the room air tested for mold infestation by one of a
Certified Mold Inspector.
To find a
Certified
Mold Inspector
in your area, please visit:
Mold Inspector.
If you don't check this problem out now, you may end up living in a mold
hell with disastrous health consequences and a loss in value of your
home because of built in mold infestation. Visit our web page:
New Home Mold.
Q. We
have a new home we have been trying to correct a leak since we moved in
in December - apparently it has been leaking throughout construction. It
is leaking through the roof into the attic then down the interior and
exterior walls and now under the flooring. Have questioned
the builder about mold, who states since it hasn't been a long time
problem that
everything will dry and be fine? [April 29, 2002]
A. Mold spores
when wet for just 24 hours will begin to eat and digest your home. In
just one week, mold infestation can become overwhelming. You need
to hire a Certified Mold
Inspector to thoroughly inspect and
mold test the ceilings, walls, floors, hvac equipment and ducts, and the
room air of your home to identify elevated levels of mold spores and
types of mold present in your home. Visit
Certified Mold
Inspector
.
Q.
PURCHASED A NEW HOME
IN ORLANDO, FLORIDA 7 YEARS AGO. ABOUT TWO YEARS AFTER I MOVED
INTO THE HOUSE IN THE RAINY SEASON I WOULD GET A LITTLE WATER IN
MY DINING ROOM TO THE FRONT OF THE HOUSE AND I THOUGHT IT
WAS COMING THROUGH THE WINDOWS. EACH YEAR IT GOT A LITTLE WORSE
AND A FEW YEARS AGO I CALLED THE BUILDER AND SHOWED
HIM THE PROBLEM AND HE SAID IT WAS A ROOF PROBLEM
AND THEY WEREN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR IT. I HAVE A TILE
ROOF. SO I HAD
A NEPHEW IN CONSTRUCTION WORK AND I GOT HIM TO FIX THE
PROBLEM-ABOUT TWO YEARS AGO. HE SAID WHEN THE TILED THE ROOF THEY DIDN'T
KNOW WHAT THEY WERE DOING AND HE WORKED ON IT AND GOT THE LEAKING
TO STOP. IN THE COUPLE YEARS BEFORE THAT IT HAD GOT MY
CARPET WET OFF AND ON AND LEAKED DOWN THE SIDE OF THE WINDOW AND
INTO THE GARAGE WHICH IS RIGHT NEXT TO THE DINING ROOM. SINCE THEN
THE CORNER OF OF THE CEILING IN THE GARAGE HAS TURNED BLACK
(I THOUGHT MILDEW- BUT IT COULD BE A BLACK MOLD) AND ALSO IN THE MASTER
CLOSET MY SHOES AND PURSES ARE ALL MOLDING AND ALL MY A. C. VENTS
THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE ARE RUSTING. ALSO THE THE PAST FEW YEARS I
HAVE BEEN TO SEVERAL DOCTORS COMPLAINING OF CHRONIC FATIGUE (WHICH I
HAVE BEEN BLAMING ON MY THYROID PROBLEMS ) WHICH I AM ON
THYROID MEDICINE AND STILL HAVE THE FATIGUE. I HAVE
DIFFICULTY BREATHING AND COUGH AND SNEEZE A LOT. DOES THIS SOUND
LIKE A MOLD PROBLEM AND IS THE BUILDER ANYWAY RESPONSIBLE? I
AM PLANNING ON HAVING A TEST DONE BUT BEFORE I SPEND THE MONEY I
WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF YOU THINK I MIGHT HAVE A PROBLEM?
[April 12, 2002]
A.
With the bad water and mold problems you are facing in this house and
your very severe health problems, your first step is to immediately move
into a mold-free place until you have thoroughly mold tested your home
and completed mold remediation in your home. Mold laboratory analysis of
the visible mold and of air samples from your attic, the hvac ducts, and
the air inside the rooms of your home will document any mold problems,
including the identification and quantification of the types of molds
that may have infested your home. Please follow the mold testing tips
provided at
Mold Testing
and Mold
Removal.
Q.
We are in the process of purchasing a newly constructed home that
had some mold problems upon the home's final inspection. The rafters in
the basement for the main level had mold present. The basement had
flooded previously about 3 inches deep due to loss of power to sump
pump. The mold was removed and the wood has been treated and passed
further tests. We are requesting some sort of additional home warranty
for the mold problem. Do you forsee further problems with this
situation? [Feb. 20, 2002]
A.
Make sure that all of the wood surfaces were treated at least twice with
the strongest homemade fungicide Mold Killer---see Mold
Killer, and a
mold home remedy recipe
antifungal coating---see Mold
Removal. You should either use
do it yourself mold
test kits available from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety
store---.or
hire a
Certified Mold Inspector
to thoroughly mold test all rooms of your home plus hvac equipment and
ducts for elevated levels of mold and for dangerous molds like black
mold spores and toxic mold spores. If mold laboratory test results show
only normal levels of mold spores and no black mold spores or toxic mold
spores, that's great news. You should also obtain a written guarantee
from the seller that any mold infestation problems arising in the next
10 years [more or less depending on your negotiating strength] anywhere
in your home will be paid for and taken care of by the seller.
Q.
I am currently having a house built and discovered that on some of the
boards in the ceiling have black mold growing on them. The Builder
says this is common for boards coming from the lumber yard and that this
is not a mold to be concerned about. They have said they will
spray the mold with bleach water and then spray a sealant over it.
They have not done drywall yet so it is still exposed. Is this
mold something I should be concerned about or is it normal in new
constructions? [Feb. 19, 2002]
A.
No way! Have all of the mold stained or mold contaminated lumber
replaced completely with mold-free lumber. Of course, much lumber mold
often comes from the lumber supplier or the lumber mill, but that's no
excuse for lumber with mold to be used in YOUR HOME where the mold would
be built into your home right in the middle of your walls, ceilings, and
floors. Insist on mold-free lumber, and, also, on having all of the
timbers sprayed twice with homemade fungicide [to kill any present
mold and mold spores] and twice with an home made anti-microbial coating [to
kill future mold growth] before insulation and drywall is installed.
Read the special study
Mold Home Remedy Recipes.
Q.
I am trying to obtain sources of information regarding air
conditioning metal ductwork versus flex ductwork (the
plastic kind that looks like the hose used to vent my dryer). I
currently own a home that has insulated galvanized metal ductwork
and am planning to build a new home. Currently, most of the
new homes that I see being built are using an insulated round flex
plastic ring ductwork. I
am concerned that this type of ductwork will deteriorate over time
and could also let bacteria form in its crevices and that I would
be better off to stay with insulated metal ductwork. Do you know
where I could locate any comparison studies that have been done on
these two types of ductwork or sources where I could obtain this type
information? [Feb. 13, 2002]
A.
It is better to build with the traditional sheet metal ducts because
they do not have crevices to trap black mold spores, toxic mold spores,
and other mold spores. In addition, the absence of crevices in smooth,
traditional sheet metal ducts make it hard for mold growth to happen.
Moreover, sheet metal gives about a 70% "bounce" increase in
the effectiveness of duct-installed ultraviolet lights to kill mold.
Killing mold with uv takes substantial uv light energy.
Q.
I would like know what is the best solution to my mold infestation
problem. My problem is that we found mold on our new framing lumber that
we just bought to build our new home. The mold was
identified as Aspergillus/Penicillium. We live in Del Rio, TX. The
mold was not noticeable when lumber arrived, and the framing began. Five
days into the framing and a weekend of very cloudy and high
humidity was all it took for the mold to start growing. Needless
to say, we stopped construction. I would greatly appreciated
your help. [Feb. 26, 2002]
A.
You are to be commended for having the foresight to stop construction
until you have removed all mold growth and mold infestation. You need to
scrape and power sand all lumber to clean condition [no mold stains or
mold growth remaining]. Then spray wet with two coatings of a home made Mold Killer
to any remaining mold spores. Then spray wet
with two coatings of an home made fungicide to provide an antimicrobial
coating on the timbers to prevent future mold growth. For more info read
the special study Mold
Home Remedy Recipes.
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