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Crawl Space Mold Removal

      Q. Jan. 25, 2012. Thank you for your informational website on mold removal.  I have found this information to be very helpful.  My family is having a mold dilemma: the joists and underlayment for the floors has mold.  The extent is near severe levels (most every joist has some mold) and I am planning on doing this remediation myself due to cost.  I have done ALOT of research the past week, and have since moved my family from the infected dwelling. I worked in the nuclear field, and understand how to put on anti-contamination clothing, and I am going to employ these same methods when I clean this up.  Also, although this problem is in the crawlspace, I am aware that the spores are everywhere.  Also, when I clean this, I will spread the spores at that time.  Do i need to take any precautions in regards to spreading spores into the house?  should I cover my entire house in plastic?  Or have the spores already invaded the walls, so this is no help?  I plan on putting fans at the vent openings to create negative air ventilation. After cleanup, I plan to remove/replace all wood floors and subfloors, and cut out/replace any areas on the joists that are too far gone, if any. Once again, should I cover all the walls in plastic when I do this? I am going to buy an Ozone Generator as soon as i get the money (tax returns).  

      A. Please follow the 25 steps to kill and remove the mold though physical processes explained at mold removal.  Use boric acid powder dissolved into hot water, along with physical mold removal techniques (such as wire brush attachment to a Makita hand grinder tool, hand wire brush, power sanding disk), to mold remediate the floor beams to visually mold-free, then it would be good to use a garden-style, hand-pumped sprayer or electric sprayer to apply a thick coating of boric acid powder on the cleaned surface. Mix at least 24 to 36 ounces of boric per gallon of hot water to leave (when dried) a white powder coating to help prevent future mold growth. You can buy boric at the boric acid website. Buy at least a 50 pound bag in view of the large scale of your job. You were so wise as to vacate the home until you have completed the mold remediation. Mold remediation, even when properly contained, can release millions of mold spores into the air.  Don't run your heating, ventilating and air conditioning cooling system (HVAC) during the mold remediation project, and seal it off from the rest of your house by plastic sheeting over the fresh air intake of your HVAC and all duct registers. Include in your mold remediation effort the use of our ozone generator to inject large amounts of ozone into the crawl space, all rooms and areas of the house (including the attic and your HVAC equipment and ducts). After the ozone treatment of the HVAC, follow that up with duct cleaning by a good duct cleaning company and then use a fogging machine to fog large amounts of boric acid compound through out the HVAC system, leaving white powder crystals to help prevent future mold growth therein. Yes, do use plastic sheeting to cover the windows and doorways of your house during the mold remediation of the crawl space to get airborne mold spores from entering the house, especially since you need to use a big box fan to exhaust mold spores to the outdoors from the crawl space during the mold remediation project. Yes, do use proper personal protection, including at least 3M brand N-95 breathing masks, eye goggles, and protective coveralls and hat and vinyl disposable gloves. Even better than N-95 would be a 3M brand full face breathing respirator with organic vapor filters (about $150 at a large hardware or home improvement store). Yes, do REPLACE, the subflooring (and the flooring if necessary). You should be able to clean the wood beams to mold-free, but you are right to replace any beams that are so far mold infested that they cannot be cleaned to mold-free. When you remove the floor and subfloor, you will be able to mold clean the tops of the beams.   May I also suggest that you sign up for my $99 of unlimited email mold advice at Mold Mart?  I am to serve you. Best wishes, Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

        Q. We finished building our house in late January and moved in 2nd week in February. We have a whirl pool/tub in master bath that is surrounded by tile. We have used it some and not extensively. a couple of weeks ago I noticed some water under crawl space, but about 2 weeks ago I noticed the sub floor under the tub was wet after my kids took a bathe in it (from a entrance to a heater to the tub on back side not in crawl space). The edge of the tub was not caulked well and when they splashed water it was leaking down on top of the sub floor. I caulked it but last night it happened again and I have a couple of spots pen head size holes that I missed. The water in the crawl space came thru a hole where a pipe is, not that the sub floor was saturated. I have put a fan and let it run as well as a dehumidifier. If this has only happened a couple of times, how serious of a problem do I have and what steps do I need to correct it, and if I do have any mold how can I eradicate this? Is my structure in okay?
         A. It is very likely that the subfloor the crawl space timbers affected by the water problem were wet for more than 24 hours, the minimum time of wetness required for mold to begin growth. As a first preventative step to contain and to remediate any possible mold outbreaks, you can use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation.

         Q. I had a home built less than 2 years ago and I went under the crawl space for the first time this past week and found that the duct work to the dryer vent was off and looked like it had been off since day one. I have black mold all around that area on my flooring. The rest of the crawl space I could see nothing. My question is that I contacted the company who installed the duct and they came out and fixed the duct but said the heat didn't produced the mold. I live in Indiana so we have some moisture in our crawl space when it rains. I would like to know your opinion. We been pumping hot air in our crawl space for who knows how long and I know that was the source for the mold. My vents to my crawl space have been open I even had my crawl space door open all spring and summer. Please give me your advice.
         A. Dryer vents deliver large amounts of humid air from the drying process. If dryer vent exhausts into a crawl space, it will cause severe mold infestation that can also grow upward into the insides of the walls and floors above. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation.  You would be wise to mold test the air of the crawl space, each room above, the attic, garage, and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test. Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.

         Q. I have hundreds of gallons of water in my crawl space. I am still under warranty and told my builder I want the problem address ASAP.  They've been dragging their feet due to a slow subcontractor. Initially, before I purchased the home, I was told that the house was built on top of the water in the crawlspace.  They pumped it out with a sump pump and told me the problem was solved. I did not believe them, and made sure that during my annual inspection the inspector went down there and found out it had tons of water.  Can this cause mold? [April 19, 2005]
         A. You are in danger of losing your home to likely mold infestation. The crawl space water will cause high crawl space humidity and thus high mold growth on the wood support timbers [which may also be directly wet from the water problem] and the crawl space wood roof. Mold can then grow from the crawl space into the floors and walls above. In addition, airborne mold spores from the crawl space mold will travel in air currents to mold cross contaminate your entire house and its heating/cooling system. You must find a permanent solution so that there is NO standing water in your crawl space ever. You are going to need to do mold remediation of the crawl space mold. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation. You are going to need to mold inspect and test your entire house. Read mold inspection and mold testing to learn how.

        Q. I am preparing to start remediation on my 50 year old house in Napa, California.  The crawl space is about three feet high with a dirt floor.  The dirt floor has a light dusting of white mold.  I plan to do the following in this order.  I would appreciate your insights and any recommendations regarding my plan.  I hope to do the work myself. 1.)  Apply a fungicide (can you suggest a product) to the dirt. 2.)  Install Visqueen over the dirt and up the cinder block walls, attaching it to the sill plate. 3.)  Install fans in existing vents to improve airflow.  4.)  Improve drainage/grade along exterior walls. Does the dirt floor need to be dry (or somewhat dry) before I do this work?  There is no standing water. Also, what should I do with the existing sump pump?  Cover it with Visqueen?  Run the Visqueen up to it?  Remove it? [Feb. 22, 2005]
        A. You need to mold test the air of the crawl space, the air of each room of the house, and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register to determine how widespread mold cross contamination might be from airborne mold spores traveling in air currents from the mold in the crawl space. Follow the mold inspection and mold testing tips provided at Mold Inspection. Be especially sure to carefully inspect the wood components of your crawl space for possible mold growth. You can use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart  The ground can be damp, but it would be nice if it were dry because dry substances absorb water-based fungicides better than already wet materials. Leave the sump pump in place to help in future flooding problems. The plastic ground liner should be on top of the sump pump. Your idea of attaching a plastic moisture barrier is good--use 6 mil thickness over all dirt and up the sides of the crawl space. Use a good plastic tape to join the plastic sheets together. Hold the plastic in place by placing bricks or rocks at key points on the plastic sheeting. Yes, anything you can do to change the ground contour and drainage to keep water out of the crawl space is extremely critical to the success of your important mold remediation and mold prevention project.  Fan installation is also helpful. Use humidistat-controlled ventilation fans that run whenever the crawl space humidity exceeds 50 to 60%.

        Q.
I have a crawl space (dirt). I had a main water line break (Kitchen and Laundry Room). Pipes are fixed, but the house has a heavy musty smell now.  The crawlspace is pretty much dry now, but there is a white almost chalky layer to the dirt down there. How do I kill the mold? [Feb. 7, 2005]
        A. Crawl space mold can easily grow into the floors and walls above. In addition, airborne mold spores from the crawl space mold can travel in air currents to mold cross contaminate your entire house and its heating/cooling system by entering your open windows, doors, and fresh air intake of your heating/cooling system. If there is enough room to work in the crawl space, it would be a good idea to kill the mold growth in the dirt and any mold spores and mold growth on the timbers of the crawl space and the underneath side of the floor decking You can use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes.  Then, if possible, remove and discard the top layer of dirt containing the mold. Similarly, also remove any visible mold growths on the crawl space lumber.  Do these steps as part of the overall mold remediation process. You would also be wise to mold test the crawl space afterwards, as well as the entire house. Follow thorough mold inspection and mold testing procedures.

 
         Q. Most of my basement is a crawl space.  The floor is concrete.  The ceiling is fiberglass insulation with no face or vapor barrier.  Should a plastic barrier be put up on the ceiling of the basement? [November 25, 2004]
       

         A. Your having a concrete floor [especially if there is an intact, functioning moisture/water barrier beneath the concrete or plenty of waterproofing compound mixed into the concrete] helps to prevent crawl space mold. If there is already mold growth on your crawl space ceiling, it will need to be first killed and removed. Follow the recommended steps for safe and effective mold remediation. Whether you have to do mold remediation, or the area is still mold-free, use a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes available at Mold Mart,  that is the time to utilize your very good idea of attaching a plastic sheeting water barrier to the underside of the crawl space. Make sure the plastic sheeting is 6 mils thick and in one piece [use taping of seams if necessary] to help keep out high humidity and airborne mold spores.

        
Q. I recently bought a town home that is contaminated with considerable amounts of mold in the crawlspace beneath the house (photo of one area attached) By visual inspection, I noticed the mold growing throughout the HVAC system, so I have refrained from turning on my heat.  Currently I cannot afford to remediate the home. My question is: Would it be safe to turn on my heat? It is starting to get very cold here in Colorado and I would like to turn it on. Thank you in advance for any information you can provide. [Nov. 15, 2004]
         A. Use duct tape and clear plastic sheeting to seal all supply registers and your inward air duct register to keep mold in the heating/cooling system for mold contaminating your entire home. Do NOT run the heating/cooling system until your entire home and the heating/cooling system have been mold inspected, tested, and remediated. Mold infestation in your heating/cooling system means your entire house is mold polluted. Use portable electric fans as a source of heat for now. Your mold photo illustrates the worst case of mold infestation in a crawl space that I have ever seen. Crawl space mold can easily grow into the insides of the floors and walls above. In addition, airborne mold spores from the crawl space mold can travel in air currents to mold cross contaminate your entire house and to further contaminate your heating/cooling equipment and ducts. Because you are on a budget [like most homeowners], you should consider safe and effective do it yourself mold remediation. Learn how to do mold remediation. Your very first step should be entire home mold testing with either one of our Certified Mold Inspectors or by Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. Become your own effective mold expert to improve your personal home or apartment environmental safety and/or the environmental health of your investment properties by reading all five of our mold advice, email delivered books [Mold Health Guide, $15; Mold Legal Guide, $15; Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, & Remediation, $15; Mold Monsters, $15; and Mold Home Remedy Recipes, $15] for just $49

     
Q. My wife has suffered from sinus problems for the past 2 years.  She is 42 years old, had never had much problems before, but has had problems for 2 straight years.  She had sinus surgery and that did not help.  We are wondering if we might have mold or a similar environmental problem.  We live on a crawl space.  It has never had any water.  It is covered with pea gravel and plastic sheeting.  The plastic has some gaps where it goes around peers and along the edge of the walls.  The crawl space is a little musty, but not overpowering.  Our indoor humidity runs about 50 - 60% in the summer time.  No flooding or any visible signs of mold.  No mold smell in the house (I am extremely sensitive to mold from a breathing/congestion and an itchy skin standpoint.  I have not been suffering any problems.  Any thoughts on whether we should consider testing?  Obviously we do not want to spend money chasing wild ideas, but we need to find some relief as well. [June 23, 2003]
      
A. Your first step is to mold test the air of the crawl space and of all the rooms above the crawl space, your attic, and the air flow out of your heating/air conditioning ducts/registers.
Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. What you doing in mold testing the indoor air for is a mold investigation of the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores which, if present, would be an indication of a possible mold infestation somewhere in your home. A humidity level of 60% is enough to enable mold to start growing. On a year-round basis, you should be maintaining an indoor humidity of 30 to 40% to discourage mold growth. You do this with a programmable dehumidifier that is programmed to keep running until humidity reaches the level you set in the 30 to 40% range.

      Q.
I live in a house where the dryer vent is vented through the floor venting directly under the house. It is a frame house with wood floors covered with carpet. Dirt is the foundation. I called a place locally for testing they told me $1500 to test. What are the chances of mold being under my house? I look forward to hearing from you. I am highly allergic to mold and about the beginning of July with Oklahoma's heat, my allergies have gone nuts. Nothing, no medication has helped. [August 28, 2003]
      
AAlmost all crawl spaces beneath homes are mold havens because of high humidity from water evaporating from the dirt ground below and from water flowing into the crawl space from outside. By venting the dryer directly into the crawl space, the dryer exhaust creates high humidity levels in the crawl space which makes it very likely you have mold growing on support timbers and the bottom of the floor decking. Crawl space mold easily spreads by growth into the floors and walls above. Crawl space mold also generates airborne mold spores that can enter the house from fresh air intakes of your heating/cooling system and through open windows and doors. You can use our do it yourself mold test kits to test the air of your crawl space, rooms, above, attic, and the outward airflow from heating/cooling duct registers for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test. Elevated levels are unhealthy and an indication that your house may have a serious mold infestation problem.

The photographs below are of mold growth in the dirt in a crawl space underneath a regular house [second row, left photo] and beneath an old Arizona trailer home [the other three photographs].

Photograph o f mold growing in the dirt crawl space beneath an old mobile home trailer.

Photograph of mold mushrooms growing in the dirt inside a mobile home crawl space.

Photograph of crawl space mold infestation problems.

Photograph of mold growth in a mobile home crawl space.

Photograph of Aspergillus mold growing on wood timbers in a house crawl space.
Aspergillus mold growing on floor joists in a home crawl space.


Mold growing on floor joists in a crawl space in Salem, Oregon.

                                                   
                                   Crawl space mold growth [including white snow-like mold] in a house in Salem, Oregon.

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The Do-It-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing & Remediation book by mold expert Phillip Fry [Certified Mold Inspector, Certified Mold Contractor, Certified Environmental Inspector, and Certified Home Inspector, and formerly with the U.S. Public Health Service National Institutes of Health, and formerly a hospital and medical center administrator], enables you [or others working under your directions] to do your own mold repairs on your home or other real estate property so that: (1) you can be assured that the mold-related work was done both safely and effectively; (2) you protect your family's health and the value of your home or other property; and (3) you get your property mold work done at a small fraction of the cost of hiring so-called "mold professionals" to do the mold necessary mold prevention, inspection, testing, and remediation. This book is extremely valuable and helpful to you even if you plan to hire a Certified Mold Inspector or Certified Mold Remediator to do the work because you need to know precisely what steps and procedures are required to be done by the contractor or remediator to achieve safe and effective mold remediation. For more information, please visit DIY Mold Book.

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For mold inspection, mold remediation, and mold prevention for your real estate property anywhere in the world, please contact
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