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Car, Van, Truck, Travel Trailer & Recreational Vehicle Mold Problems
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How to Do Mold Removal and Mold Remediation for Cars, Vans, Trucks, Travel Trailers, Campers, and Recreational Vehicles (RV)

Driving or riding regularly in a mold infested vehicle is certainly a good way to enable elevated levels of airborne mold spores in the vehicle and its heating/cooling ducts to be inhaled by the driver and the passengers, and thus possibly to initiate mold growth inside the driverís and passengers' bodies.

You ought to mold test the outward air flow out of the heating/cooling duct registers of the car/truck, plus test any visible mold grows, plus test the air of the passenger compartment air, the trunk, and any other storage areas for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores in comparison with an outdoor mold control test.

You should also do mold testing all around your home and workplace [because of possible mold contamination of either area from mold spores transported from the car/truck into or from your home or workplace on your hair, skin, clothes, and shoes]. It is very common for your car and/or home air conditioning systems to be mold contaminated if there are elevated levels of mold in the car and/or home. Use the do it yourself mold test kits, available from a large hardware or home improvement store.You would compare the number and variety of mold growths on the culture plate of each test kit for each duct register and for the passenger compartment air test, in comparison to an outside mold control test done 5 feet away from the automobile. You can also can mold lab analysis and mold species identification, if you so desire, of the mold test kits.  

You should spray one of the Mold Home Remedy Recipes or boric acid powder mixed into warm water.  into the vehicleís heating/cooling duct registers to kill mold hidden inside the heating/cooing ducts.  If there is still a moldy smell, consider replacing the carpeting and reupholstering the seats.

Donít use bleach to try to kill car mold because bleach is ineffective on porous surfaces such as seat upholstery and carpeting. Learn why bleach doesnít kill mold on porous surfaces at Bleach and Mold

While killing and removing mold inside the vehicle, the worker should follow proper safety procedures such as using a 3M brand breathing respirator mask [from a large hardware store or home improvement store], throwaway painterís work clothes or other protective clothing, and rubber gloves. Learn about mold remediation safety and effectiveness steps in detail at Mold Removal

To avoid future car mold problems, a car or other vehicle that is sitting unused for more than a few days ought to have all interior surfaces [including carpeting and upholstery] washed with Borax laundry detergent, a natural mold cleaner, in warm water to remove deposited organic dirt [mold food] and landed mold spores.

The most effective way to kill mold growth and bacterial infestation inside a vehicle's passenger compartment and inside its heating/cooling equipments is to use the ozone generator hose attachment to inject massive amounts of ozone gas for one hour into the car's interior (with the windows rolled up except for hose entry) and heating/cooling duct registers.  You can buy a high output home model ozone generator for only $475 from http://www.ozonegeneratorkillsmold.com .  Once you own your own ozone blaster, you can make big money renting it, or doing the ozone service yourself, for other vehicles and real estate buildings in your area to kill mold growth, mold spores, pet odors, and other offensive odors.

Vehicle Mold Remediation Questions

     Q.
Nov. 13, 2012. Here's my problem:  I had an A/C leak in my car, the carpet on the passenger side got quite wet before I discovered it; leak was fixed and I assumed the carpet had dried out so replaced the removable mat on top of it.  Apparently, it needed more drying.  Well, the A/C issue returned to be fixed once again and now I see that there is hard, dried, white mold on this section of carpet.  Will this boric acid formula be effective in removing this dried mold?  I looked into replacing the carpet but as you can imagine, totally cost prohibitive.  Thanks for your input.         
    
A. Boric acid powder would be very effective to remove the mold in the car's carpeting.  Mix one pound of boric acid powder into one gallon of hot water to dissolve the boric fully. Use a hand-held scrub brush to scrub the carpeting very thoroughly and at least several times. You should also scrub the car seats upholstery and the entire vehicle's interior (walls, ceiling, etc.) You can buy boric acid powder for delivery to you. After the boric acid treatment, do ozone blasting with a high output ozone generator for at least one hour. You can buy the high ozone output home model or contractor model ozone generator. Once you own your own ozone generator, you can make big money renting it out to others, or providing the ozone blasting yourself, in your area to kill mold, mold odors, and pet odors. If you have more questions, please email me.---Phillip Fry, mold expert, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator.

   
Q. Feb. 5, 2012. Phillip, I've been reading about your mold treatments. What would you suggest for my plight? I have a 32' travel trailer, year 2000 model which has a damaged roof. Rain has leaked at several locations because of the roof problems. Most water damage is in the back of the trailer; in the bedroom. I discarded the mattress. I had two contractors examine the trailer; one said he'd suggest removing the ceiling and walls to search for mold. The other contractor said there was certainly a roof leak that ruined the mattress but that there was not enough damage to the ceiling or walls to remove them and that he'd clean those areas. I hired the second contractor to replace the roof and insulation under the roof. He also said he'd "spray" the ceiling and walls after cleaning. Now, what can I do to help kill any remaining mold? I've read about the "ozone blaster" and that seems reasonable but I'm unsure about what to do. What are your suggestions? 
   
A. Removing and replacing the roof was a great decision on your part, but you need to do more. Because there was a roof leak, there will also have been water intrusion into the insides of the walls close to the roof leak problems. I would suggest that your remove and replace the walls in the bedroom area. When the walls have been opened, you can clean out the mold growth therein and protect the area against future mold growth by scrubbing and spraying those exposed areas with boric acid mix (recipe for mix and use instructions are on the boric acid powder page of Mold Mart, where you can buy boric from us). You should also carefully examine the entire floor area of your trailer by your visual inspection beneath the trailer, assisted with a strong flashlight.  Be sure to follow the safety and mold remediation tips provided in the 25 step mold removal process.  One of the recommended steps, especially when you have the walls opened up, is to use our ozone generator to kill all mold spores. Using an ozone generator does not do away with the need to remove physical mold growth. You should do both ozoning and other mold remediation steps. You can buy our home model high ozone generator. If I can be of further service, please email me. Phillip Fry, mold consultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

    Q. Jan. 22, 2012. I have a hybrid camper with a vinyl slide for sleeping.  We winter in Texas and deal with moisture.  The inside of our vinyl slide has small spots of mold starting and it multiplies in the summer as it is stored.  I have started to put damp rid to take  up the moisture and that is helping but I want to get rid of the mold on the slide and not damage the material so it does not drip from rain.  It is supposed to be rain proof which it is.  What can I use that won't hurt it?  It is only in the inside. The other slide that we do not use much is fine so it has to be when the sea vapor comes in from the ocean. 

    A. Use a hand-held scrub brush soaked repeatedly in boric acid powder mixed with warm water (start with hot water to mix the powder into a clear cleaning solution) to vigorously and repeatedly scrub off the existing mold growth. You can buy boric at http://www.moldmart.net. Use at least three kitchen cups of boric per gallon of hot water to have a strong mold remover and mold cleaner. Then, after removal of the mold growth, each year use a hand-pumped garden sprayer (or even an inexpensive sprayer bottle) to spray on a wet coating of boric in warm water (but at least 24 ounces of boric per gallon of mix water) onto the entuire surface that has mold problems. Let the boric spray dry, leaving a white powdering coating that will be an excellent mold preventative. Don't rinse off that final spraying because it is the dried crystalline powder that stops future mold growth.

    
Q. Jan. 14, 2012. Thank you for the speedy delivery of my Mold Home Remedy Recipes ebook! My mother-in law gifted my wife a beautiful BMW 328i convertible. Unfortunately there heavy rains in LA before it was brought to San Diego. There was a pair of socks in the trunk and they became moldy. We sprayed the trunk with white vinegar and the following day removed the majority of carpet from the trunk. The car has been outdoors and fortunately the whether has been sunny.I am just beginning to learn about mold abatement. I have not found any company in San Diego that deals specifically with mold abatement in cars. The next step has been to become educated.
I plan to dedicate some serious time to this project. ANY IMMEDIATE TIPS for this situation would be very much appreciated and needed. I will get a new respirator and protective clothing. I am reading your manual which is more geared towards homes- SO ANY - sound advice that you can give towards applying those methods to a car are greatly needed.

     
A. Why don't you start a car mold removal service for southern California? You would have many customers.  One low-cost mold remediation tool you can use for the BMW and for your future clients is the home model of our high ozone output generator, available at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. Use its hose attachment to blast large amounts of ozone into the car's heating/cooling duct registers as well as into the car interior and truck. High ozone is wonderful for both killing mold and its smell.  In addition, as a second, step, you can also advance the mold removal process by scrubbing the entire interior with boric acid powder, mixed in warm water. Scrub the ceiling, seat upholstery, floor carpeting, and everywhere inside the car and trunk. Buy boric at http://www.moldmart.net. If I may be of further service, just let me know. In service, Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist

Q. I am a parts and service director at a luxury car dealership. Over a 72 hour period we had a vehicle parked outside which was being serviced over a holiday weekend the vehicles window was left partially rolled down. The vehicle was wet on the right side carpeting and seat area. We discovered this when returning the following Monday. We informed the customer and had the water extracted and left the vehicle inside with windows rolled down for several days. We had our technician inspect the carpeting, by partial removal and inspecting the padding underneath for any signs of dampness. The tech. verified the underside of the carpeting and the foam padding, which is part of the carpeting, was dry. We informed the customer and she stated that she had acute asthma and allergies and if there was any mold or if any animal possibly entered her vehicle she could have an asthma attack. The customer is requesting that either her entire interior including all carpet, seats, etc. be replaced or we give her a new car. Can this vehicle be tested for any possible mold and given some sort of a clean bill of health, if applicable, to avoid either of these two scenarios. I would appreciate any advice you could lend. [Jan. 21, 2005]

A. Have the passenger compartment thoroughly inspected and tested [including outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register] for elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control sample by a Certified Mold Inspector. If there is a serious mold problem, replacing the items is not the only option. You should first trying scrubbing the entire interior including both sides of carpeting plus the upholstery with Borax laundry detergent [a natural mold cleaner] in warm water. Fan dry quickly to get rid of excess moisture. You can use also a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes and other Mold  killing and protective products available at Mold Mart. Then fan dry after allowing the home remedy to kill for at least one hour. Then have the car re-tested by the Certified Mold Inspector---or use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.

Q. I think itís possible that I have a moisture and mold problem in my carís carpet and pad. It was cleaned by a detailer that left it quite wet. There is some odor and every time I get in the car my asthma is activated. Any advice on how to best detect the problem? If I can prove itís the source, I can replace all the carpet in the car. [Jan. 21, 2005]

A. To document the mold health problem in the car, use the Scotch tape lift sampling technique on the carpeting to collect possible mold samples to put into the sticky surface of a mold culture plates---by using do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.. You should also mold test the air of the car and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct.  Replacing the carpeting/padding is not enough. The entire inside of the passenger compartment needs to be scrubbed repeatedly [fan drying afterwards] with Borax laundry detergent, a natural mold cleaner. You can use also a low-cost Mold Home Remedy Recipes and other Mold Killing and protective products available at Mold Mart. Also spray 6% to 10% concentration of hydrogen peroxide heavily into each of the carís heating/cooling duct registers.

Q. My car was taken to a body shop on November 5th, 2004. When I went to pick up my car on December 27th, 2004 I opened the trunk and found black colored mold everywhere. Cause: The brake light mounted in the trunk lid was removed for painting and was not reinstalled correctly. Effect: Thus causing water to leak in to my car unnoticed for quite some time. The body shop noted that the break light was not seated correctly on the left side (the black trim on that side was an inch below the truck lid) and didn't know what to say. I left the car there so that they could repair the damage and correct the other paint flaws that I noticed. I called them today to find out when my car would be ready for pick up. At that time I inquired as to how they were able to kill the mold from my car. They said that they had it detailed. I am concerned that detailing is not going to kill the mold... the mold spread from the trunk to the interior (evidenced by the presence of mold on the back plastic window) and was even in my CD changer on the cartridge. What can I do to ensure that it is cleaned up correctly.... is it possible? Will it come back? How will I know? Is it going to make me sick? Is there some place in Seattle Washington that handles this type of issue? Any advise you could give me would be GREATLY appreciated! [Jan. 5, 2005

A. Your first step should be scrub the entire trunk and passenger compartment repeatedly with Borax laundry detergent, a natural mold cleaner, in warm water. Spray hydrogen peroxide into the heating/cooling duct registers to kill mold inside the heating/cooling ducts of the car. After all sprayed surfaces are dried, use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store to mold test the air of the trunk and of the passenger compartment for any possible elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to your outdoor mold control test.

Q. I have a 2002 Saturn SL1 and the car was diagnosed with a manufacturers defect about 7 months ago. Apparently there was a leak in the firewall and water got into the car. After about six trips to the dealer they had replaced every piece of soft interior, pulled the dash apart twice, replaced all the mats, carpets, rubber and fiber insulation and they washed down the hard parts of the interior with [product name] They have probably spent at least $10K trying to fix it. My 3 year / 36000 warranty ran out on Friday and at that time I took the car in. The service manager, sales manager, and the General Manager reached a consensus that my smelling of mold was a figment of my imagination. I think the car still smells and so does my wife and my son. Saturn Customer Service relies on the dealer and I can't get them to respond to me. If I want to get any where with resolving the perceived problem I will have to prove; perhaps legally prove, that mold still exists. If the results are positive I can proceed and if they are negative I am still a happy camper that the problem is solved. Now the mold odor is not nearly as bad as it was but I believe that a little bit of mold is like a little bit pregnant. It will mature! What do you recommend that I do? [December 13, 2004]

A. Using a medium-sized, clean [rubbing alcohol disinfected] fan, stir up the air inside the closed car for 15 minutes. Turn off and remove the fan. Place one of our opened mold test kits in the middle of the passenger compartment and leave it there it for one hour for any mold in the air to settle down onto the settling plate [mold test kit]. Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store. Then seal the test kit closed and follow the other mold test kit instructions. Watch for mold growth over a 7 day time period. Do a car heating/cooling duct test by holding a separate mold test kit in the direct outward air flow [out flowing air directly hits the sticky surface of the open mold test kit] from each heating/cooling duct register [running on fan ventilation] inside the car [open windows are fine]. Do a 15 minute air mold test for each separate duct register. Then seal the kits and watch for 7 days. If you have many molds in colony counts and types of molds growing, you have in your hands proof positive of the existence of a serious mold problem. You will also do [at the same time as your interior car testing] an outdoor mold control sample test 5 feet away from the car. Read our mold test kit instructions carefully at If you so desire, the mold test kits showing the most mold growth can then be submitted to a mold lab for mold lab analysis and mold species identification.  In view of all the effort that has been put into the interior of the car as to mold remediation, there is a distinct possibility that the remaining mold smell is coming from mold growth still resident in your car's heating/cooling equipment and in the duct work which carries heating/cooling into your passenger compartment.

Q. I have a mold removal question. My husband was doing some major repairs on a friend's van. The van sat without being driven for a total of 9 months which included the winter wet and raining season of the Seattle area. When the van was able to be driven my husband then noticed the horrific mold problem. This van is a conversion van so the entire inside is carpet and cloth fuzzy seats. There is even cloth curtains that are not easily removed. We have cleaned the van with carpet upholstery cleaned and then dried it out good. This took care of a lot of the mold, but not all of it. There is still a great deal of black spots and the inside smells very musty and moldy. The owners of this van are highly allergic to mold. Is there any way to salvage the inside of this vehicle? [May 28, 2003]

A. No. Serious mold growth in and on soft fabrics requires their removal and discarding. After the moldy car materials have been removed, all indoor surfaces need to be cleaned in a thorough mold cleaning, with Borax laundry detergent, a natural mold cleaner, in warm water. The hardest problem will be to disinfect the inside of the car's heating and air conditioning ducts. Spraying hydrogen peroxide as a fine mist for several hours into the hvac registers can help solve this problem, but the best solution is to remove and replace the car's hvac equipment and ducts [very costly]. For more information on mold remediation, please visit: Mold Remediation.

[Also visit: Are You Driving Around in a Sick Car?]

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For mold inspection, mold remediation, and mold prevention for your real estate property anywhere in the world, please contact
mold consultants Phillip Fry and Divine Fry  email phil@moldinspector.com or call Phillip Toll-Free 1-866-300-1616 or cell phone 1-480-310-7970